MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

No issues so far so it must have been that old resistance wire. Next I'll be installing the recommended ballast resistor and will see how that goes. If it fails again, I'll come back and post as such.

That was the msd part no. Mallory part no was unavailable.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/maa-700

The resistor is there to help limit the maximum current your ignition setup can take. With the Unilite only setup I had, Mallory said it should be used - but oddly didn't supply it with the dizzy kit. You might be OK without, but I wouldn't be sure of that. It was very expensive for what it was ...

If the resistor was designed to handle the power the coil took when driven direct from the Unilite - single coil setup - it would carry virtually no current when feeding just the dizzy alone, with no coil. So would likely be doing nothing, so wouldn't get hot. Your ignition box would be taking the ...

Is MS working in a fuel only mode? Ie, not controlling the ignition timing? Whatever, if MS loses the tach signal it stops injecting as it thinks the engine has stopped.
Sadly, this could be a problem with your ignition system or MS

I used a Unilite with resistor for several years on fuel only MS ...

Removed the ballast resistor wire and ran a dedicated power line to the dizzy and so far so good. Min value on Engine was 1 on my first 20+ minute trip. Will comment here if the problem comes back.

I have the original ballast resistor wire installed on my 1966 Ford Mustang which supplies power to the distributor and ignition box. It's not necessary so I'll try removing it and supplying a full 12v and see if that legacy item is the issue. Maybe it was dropping the power lower than is acceptable.

Looks like the Engine serial protocol entry is likely what Run: is based on. Still not sure what would determine the value of Engine or what the different values represent.

So I've had this fairly rare issue where I'll be driving along and the car will die for a few seconds.... then wake back up. I finally had it happen while logging and I noticed the RPM drops to 0 and the RUN field shown in MegaLog Viewer shows N. What determines when RUN will show N - or is that ...

Fresh air calibrated the O2 sensor and it seems to stay around +/- 0.1 points at cruise now. Idle is still a bit more jumpy, but for the cam I'm using I think it's within tolerance.

Thanks for yer time looking into it tho!

I'll be cruising with the family this weekend, will make sure to log the trip and upload the info. TY for the help!

There was a discussion on that on ... some forum (sigh) ... not too long ago. From what I recall, you're seeing the limits of the WBO2 controller firmware. It COULD be made more precise (takes modified firmware from the controller manufacturer, so - not too likely), but a small 0.1 jitter is rarely ...

trakkies wrote:IMHO it's not usual to have EGO control enabled at idle.

The vid is with it enabled at idle. Is that fairly typical AFR? I see a 1 point spread at cruise too.

I have a fairly healthy cam and lift on the motor so I'm wondering if this idle AFR is to be expected. It will float a point every second or so after it's warmed up. Should I expect a tighter range than that? EGO control has 10% and is active above 500 RPM so I'd think it could be much more stable ...

Fordfan,
I had the same issue. Ran 2.887 for years, updated to 2.891 and didn't notice that AFR was stuck in my logs. I did trace the voltage swing from the O2 pot all the way back to pin #28 on the processor board. So I figured it had to be something. I was going to post a question, when I came ...

It sounds like your starter is getting cooked by the headers.

I did have to swap the starter the day before heading on the trip. The old one I had installed in 2010 started making one helluva loud noise for 1 second after the engine started. Maybe the new one is a lemon? I could cover the starter ...

I’m sorry for the delayed response, I have been away.

You can go into:
Tools --> Calibrate AFR

and use a custom Linear, then shift the AFR values there by the 1.5.
That will make your AFR read consistent with the other.
1.5 is a pretty big discrepancy. Are you sure his was reading correctly ...

Does it kick back, or what?

Could you post an MSQ and a log of the startup issue?

No kick back - it just acts like the battery is dead and might turn 1/4 turn before getting caught up against the compression. Let it sit 20 mins and it will start. I don't have any logs of starting the car since I ...

I'm running about 11:1 compression on the motor and am having issues getting the engine to start when hot. I have an Optima Red battery that's in good condition and flings the engine when under 190 degrees. At the dragstrip, the engine had issues starting between runs ( 210 degrees ). Is there a hot ...

If it is a linear WB which most are, you can calibrate it with offset AFR's to get a shift in your reading.

Usually when the read different it is due to grounding.

It's an Innovate LC-1. The Dyno shop stuffed a vacuum probe up the tailpipe where it dumps in front of tire ( I'm running ...