MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

I printed a mega manual back in 03.
Now back into playing with cars again after over a decade of absence the options available are overwhelming.

Which would be the cheapest assembled board to use on my 99 Corolla that I just installed a 01 vvt engine into.

i would like an ecu and long enough pig ...

Plenty reasons to get rid of the distributor and use multiple coils - either wasted spark or sequential.

One thing I discovered is it needs a decent power supply. Seems to need more current to load code than simply running with a Stim on test. Just something to check. Other thing is I always use the old desktop with proper serial port. Takes one more thing like the USB adaptor out of the equation.

It would make more sense to me to fit a 36-1 crank trigger wheel and sensor. Gives a higher resolution signal to MS. Which means faster reaction to any timing change mapped.

Have you tried the PNP/NPN setting on your Stim?

Does your DVM give an AC voltage reading between tach select and ground with the stim connected and everything powered up and the RPM pots on the stim set above zero?

Note that the signal you get from a Stim may not be identical to that from a sensor so you may need to adjust those pots between them.

Generally, I've never needed to adjust R52 so leave that fully CCW. Its purpose is to help with interference, and there won't be any from a Stim.

Start with R56 ...

I'm a bit confused here. D1&2 are part of the opto input. Pots R52 & 56 part of the VR input. Which one are you using?

Can you hear the pump run when you switch on? You may have to get close to it to be certain and get someone to switch on for you. It should run for a couple of seconds then stop.

BTW, most DVMs don't measure very low resistance accurately. And 1 ohm at 12v would be 12 amps.

Better to measure how ...

IMHO you will never get it to run (or at least reasonably well) until the RPM figure shown in a log is true RPM. Just about everything MS controls depends on this.

Think we need an expert to reply to this. Most trigger wheels are crank driven. I''d expect MS to default to that. But needs to be told if you're using a cam speed trigger only.?

kjones6039 wrote:I can't open your images! Any suggestions?

Ken

It's Photo Bucket. They have stopped free third party hosing. I've changed to ImgBB which works in about the same way.

So I have ground off another tooth to make it appear like a 12-1 wheel to the Megasquirt.

Still wont start. Could someone please, please look at my datalog, I think there might be interference on the rpm signal, it appears to be reading a lot higher all of a sudden, 5-10x higher. In previous ...

I'd first try re-loading the code. Just possible a voltage spike etc corrupted the software. But first check the 5 volts to the processor are present and correct.

If it does prove to be the processor, it can be replaced for about half the cost of a new daughter card. If you decide on that ask on ...

Interesting question. It's an unusual setup, I'd say, and perhaps the code won't cope with that trigger wheel at cam speed.

Would it be possible to remove a tooth opposite the missing one so there are two? Then treat it as a 12-1 crank sensor?

But not certain that would work, either.

Is it really idling at 1800 rpm? And the TPS graph shows exactly zero all the time? I'd expect to see a bit of jitter on that even with the throttle closed.

Are you seeing an RPM reading on TS when attempting a start?

Are you attempting VEAL at very low revs? Best to set it so it only works well above idle - say 1500 rpm onwards or so. And have you set the lag factor for your wideband sensor position?

Is there 5v at the proto area? If you've fitted the daughter card, remove it until you have the correct voltages at the various test points.

Tach signal MS wise usually refers to the RPM signal from engine to MS. Pin36 is that tach *input* to MS.

To derive a suitable signal to drive your tachometer, check the manual for how to.

The basics on MS2 are pretty well all hard wired to the DB37 via the PCB. Power, tach input, injectors, TPS. CTS, ATS, etc. Choices happen for things like idle speed control. Only you know how you've configured that side of things.

If you wish a plug and play unit, where you can swap between ...