what kind of tachometer will work
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Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. Many users will not reply if the answer is already available in the manual.
If your question is about troubleshooting, configuration, or tuning, you MUST include your processor type (MS-I or MS-II) and code version in your post. If your question is about PCB assembly or modifications, you must also include the main board version number (1.01, 2.2 or 3.0).
If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra code configuration or tuning, please post them at www.msextra.com Such questions posted here will be moved to: a temporary MSextra sub-forum, where they will be removed after 7 days
The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
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luv2trade442
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- Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 11:02 am
what kind of tachometer will work
I'm going to put MS2 with board 3.57 in a 68 Olds with the factory tach, will it work properly or will i have to make some upgrade to a newer type tach internals?? THX
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FridgeFreezer
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A bit more info would be helpful 
If you are keeping the stock ignition system OR the tach is fed from the alternator W terminal (which I think is unlikely on a '68 ) then you are OK.
IF you have gone for a different ignition system, you need to know how the tach gets it's feed. If it is triggered from the coil -ve terminal, you can use diodes from the coil pack -ve feeds (one feed per coil on coil packs) to fool the tacho. Here's a picture for a 4-coil wasted spark ( V8 ) setup:
If you are keeping the stock ignition system OR the tach is fed from the alternator W terminal (which I think is unlikely on a '68 ) then you are OK.
IF you have gone for a different ignition system, you need to know how the tach gets it's feed. If it is triggered from the coil -ve terminal, you can use diodes from the coil pack -ve feeds (one feed per coil on coil packs) to fool the tacho. Here's a picture for a 4-coil wasted spark ( V8 ) setup:
Hi,
I am asking for my RV8 which has an alternator "W" - fed tach input as you know, Fridge ;)
I do have an output from Megasquirt-2 which supplies a tach-signal. Is there any chance for me to drive the tachometer with it ? That would be my favourite - the wire is just there, without any use at the moment and I know where to catch the wire that goes to the tachometer in the binnacle.
If not --- I´m asking because my alternator seems to be faulty in letting the RPM-gauge move only for a short burst when cranking begins --- should I think about taking a signal from the EDIS-coils ? I have no idea what kind of signal the tach expects, respectively it wants a frequency signal but what voltage (12V probably) and what "Hz" I cannot guess (must be dependent on the pulley-ratio of the alternator.
Can you guide me to one solution or the other ?
(Well the alternator is nearly new, 120A type, charging happily and was cheap due to that fault. But it kept me on the road so I accepted the missing alternator>tach signal. It´s a Bosch alternator and I have no real idea of how to disassemble it further than removing the black lplastic cap of it´s rear. If it were an old Lucas alt. I think I could inspect the "W"-connection and try to repair something.
I am asking for my RV8 which has an alternator "W" - fed tach input as you know, Fridge ;)
I do have an output from Megasquirt-2 which supplies a tach-signal. Is there any chance for me to drive the tachometer with it ? That would be my favourite - the wire is just there, without any use at the moment and I know where to catch the wire that goes to the tachometer in the binnacle.
If not --- I´m asking because my alternator seems to be faulty in letting the RPM-gauge move only for a short burst when cranking begins --- should I think about taking a signal from the EDIS-coils ? I have no idea what kind of signal the tach expects, respectively it wants a frequency signal but what voltage (12V probably) and what "Hz" I cannot guess (must be dependent on the pulley-ratio of the alternator.
Can you guide me to one solution or the other ?
(Well the alternator is nearly new, 120A type, charging happily and was cheap due to that fault. But it kept me on the road so I accepted the missing alternator>tach signal. It´s a Bosch alternator and I have no real idea of how to disassemble it further than removing the black lplastic cap of it´s rear. If it were an old Lucas alt. I think I could inspect the "W"-connection and try to repair something.
Range Rover Classic - 4.2V8, c/r 8.9:1, standard - EDIS - KnockSense - Innovate LC-1 - MS-2 (B&G - code 2.883j)(continuous baro)(dualEGO but only one sond used)(stepper IAC)