MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

Hello: I'm looking for a trigger wheel to fit a Porsche 911. The problem that I have is that we don't have much room behind the pulley. I am looking for a trigger wheel for the Ford EDIS that is about 4.5 -5.0 inchs in diameter or 116mm-127mm. I would like to use a stock Ford wheel or a made up wheel the correct size. If the wheel is close in diameter I can turn it down or modify it to suit the pulley. I have a lathe and Bridgeport mill and the skill to do it (tool and die maker). Could you also supply the name or part number where I can get these. Again thanks Eric

Aircooled6racer wrote:...I have a lathe and Bridgeport mill and the skill to do it (tool and die maker)...

These tools are certainly sufficient for fabricating your own wheel...

Finding one larger and turning it down will decrease the "tooth" releif, and if that dimension is decreased too much, the signal will degrade.

Simply cut a circle to the diameter you want, measure and mark 72 evenly spaced lines (every 5°) and mill out every other gap. Then mill out the extra tooth and you're golden.

If you want to get fancy, you could chamfer the tooth edges...

-Brian

The Ford wheel for the 4.6 Lincoln's and Crown Vic's is right at 5". I don't have the part number handy. Mine machined fine, but I understand it does not weld very well because it's made out of some sort of powdered metal. I think mine cost around $17.

Hello: Thanks for the info on the trigger wheel. I can machine a trigger wheel on the rotary table, but why reinvent the wheel (pun intended) if you don't have to. Thanks Eric

Aircooled6racer wrote:...but why reinvent the wheel (pun intended) if you don't have to...

How true. I was under the impression that the flywheel parts were much larger than 5" and all the others are machined into the flywheel...

Shows what I know!

-Brian

Hello: I found a Ford 5" trigger wheel that is steel. It is part number XW1E-12A227-AC. It is off a 2005 F150 V8 I think. I still would like to find some other ones if any of you know of any let me know. Thanks Eric

Eric,

This something I've always wanted to try. Get the aluminum pulley from Smart racing, mill holes every 10 degrees, and then epoxy in some steel dowel pins from McMaster-Carr. Get pins the match the size of the top of each tooth. I am thinking this would work pretty well.

Mike: What you are talking about would work just fine but it is alot of work. All I did was bore out the center on the Ford trigger wheel to match the Clewett pulley (which I had) and drilled 4 mounting holes. It was real fast and simple. I will buy the smart racing pulley from Craig and see if I can do it the same way. The next one I will do needs to have the AC drive pulley on it. It is very hot in Texas in August, 100 degrees today. I will check to see how much those trigger wheels are. I will send you a pic if you want. Let me know. My EDIS stuff should be here soon. Did you have any problems with your ignition hookup? Thanks Eric

My EDIS setup went in great. I made a bracket for the coil pack and installed it on the left cam box cover. That way I was able to use my existing plug wires. I just had to clip off the Porsche ends and crimp on some Ford ends. I just welded the 36-1 wheel to the stock pulley. I had some issues with fan housing clearance, but nothing a dremel couldn't cure.



I now have a vendor that will make Porsche sized crank pulleys with 36-1 wheels installed - similar to the Clewett pulleys.

I just thought the dowels would be a cool way to make a notched wheel.

Last time I spoke with Rich over at Smart Racing, he said that they would pre-drill the pulley if I wanted and dowel pins are cheap!

Mike: One other thing about the dowels in the crank pulley is at 8000rpm they may want to fly out of the pulley. I know you can press them in and glue them as well, but the thought of flying pins sounds kind of cool or scary. Let me know what you can get the AC pulley for. I just bought another project car today, just for the megasquirt test. No actually it was to cheap to pass up. It is a black 82 no sunroof coupe. It is a euro car with a blown engine(broken rod bolt) big mess. I'm going to put the 2.7 in there now and try to do the spark first. What do you think? The engine is twin plugged so I need two coil packs but do I also need 2 modules as well? I'm going to use the small crank sensor from Clewett since I have it. I think the sensor should work, what do you think? Thanks Eric

You shouldn't need two modules, just run the coil packs in parallel. As long as the sensor is a VR sensor and not a hall effect sensor, it will work. If it doesn't, your FLAP should have Ford VR sensors for less that $20.

Just a heads up, when I installed the Ford VR sensor to the Ford module, I assumed that I would match up the blue and gray wires from the VR with the blue and gray wires from the module - WRONG! The blue goes to gray and the gray goes to blue. Nice.

Hello: Mike, I was told by others to run 2 modules. I went out to the local junk yard and found another one for $10 so I bought 2. Always need spares. How is your car running? I've been busy making wiring harnesses and mounting brackets for the coil pack and relay board to ECU. I'am going to mount the ECU under the seat with a quick release so I can remove it. How is the throttle response compaired to carbs or MFI ? Thanks for the info again. Thanks Eric

Mike Bonkalski wrote:You shouldn't need two modules, just run the coil packs in parallel. As long as the sensor is a VR sensor and not a hall effect sensor, it will work.

You might want to check the coil electrical characteristics, and compare with the stock EDIS coil packs. The EDIS module charges until it reaches a current limit. With multiple coils in parallel you'll reduce the spark energy per coil due to that current limiting effect. It might be a purely academic concern, but it wouldn't hurt to check it out.

Roger.