MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

-EDIT- I have a purchased a MSII v3 kit, relay board, and stim. I have a 1uzfe and ford EDIS 8 coil pack setup. I am trying to sort out whether I can use some of the stock Toyota sensors.

This megaSquirt stuff is pretty complicated.
I will be using this thread to document my progress, as well as to solicit advice.
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I just bought a '77 celica. I have a line on a 1uz-fe for a pretty good price which I hope to pick up this week. I plan to turbo it, shooting for 400hp or so. This definitely will be my most involved project so far. I'm excited.


I was planning on using Megasquirt kits for spark, fuel, relay board, and wiring harness for simplicity. I'd like to get started on the wiring harness, ecu, and relays right away. Any feedback you can give me, to make sure I'm ordering the right stuff would be appreciated. I have been reading up for a while, but learn much better when I have something in my hands. dive in/

I am planning on using ford EDIS coilpacks for spark.

I was hoping to use the rest of the toyota stock sensors.

I have not yet figured out which injectors to use. It seems like high impetance injectors work better for 8 cylinder projects. I would like 450cc, high impetance, cheap and readily available used parts.

I was planning to get a megasquirt kit with the v3 main board. Should I get the MSn'Spark daughter board? I have an EGT gauge. It seems like it would be good to have 2 O2 sensor inputs, narrow and wide band.

I was planning to get the relay board kit, stimulator, and wiring harness kit.

Megasquirt kit v3
http://www.glensgarage.com/catalog/...&products_id=31
Relay board kit
http://www.DIYAutoTune.com/catalog/mega ... -p-31.html
harness
http://www.DIYAutoTune.com/catalog/...ready-p-43.html
relay cable
http://www.DIYAutoTune.com/catalog/mega ... -p-47.html
stimulator
http://www.DIYAutoTune.com/catalog/mega ... -p-30.html

Does this look right?

shadetree wrote:I was hoping to use the rest of the toyota stock sensors.

With the MegaSquirt II, it is easy to setup sensors with different temp/resistance curves. You might search the forum to see if some one has the resistance valve used for the Toyota sensors, other wise you can pull them and measure the resistance at boiling, freezing and room temperature.

Hi Imp. Injectors are a little easier to setup. I personally like low imp. Injectors, with a properly setup Peak & hold PWM, you will get a faster injector closing time. So you will have better idle control with large CC injectors.


You don't not need the MSn'Spark daughter board, it is easy to add a 2nd O2 input in the proto area of the V3.0 board.

Low resistance injectors are OK? I thought I read somewhere that they strain the board.

I would prefer to use them, just because I already have 4 DSM 450s from my old project, and getting 4 more would be easy, as they are cheap and widely available.

shadetree wrote:Low resistance injectors are OK? I thought I read somewhere that they strain the board.

As long as you have the correct hardware setup, i.e. fly back dampening setup installed on the MegaSquirt board.

The older v2.2 MegaSquirt board had problems with 8 low imp. injectors, but there is a fly back dampener board retrofit.

You can happily and easily run low-z injectors with the V3.0 ecu.

The MsnSe Extras card is AWSOME! Since your going turbo, you can use its boost controller also. You realy can't design your own board for the EGT stuff and the boost controler and save anything. The card is definatly worth the price!

Harnesses and relay cables are a pain to make up, but I still prefer to make my own. The connectors are included with the kits.

Relay box... Your intended project was likely carberated. Relay box will make your life easier. Do yourself a favor though. I see lots of people jumper around the fidle relay for ignition control. Save the ralay for something else and just change the path going into the relay box. I swap the pins on my connectors. I also use connectors with removable pins to make this and future repairs a little easier.

Stimulator is a definate must have! I got three....

I would add one thing. I would get a wideband sensor. Since I do a lot of these, I use an LM-1 with rpm converter and do not run a permanent wideband in any of my projects. But the LC-1 is an inexpensive canidate and works great.

Thanks for the advice. I already have a LC-1 wideband from my last project.

What is the reasoning behind loosing the relay for Fidle?

Yeah the celica was carbed.

This definitely will be the most involved electrical project I have tackled. I have limited electronic experience, chipped a Honda ecu and added a few wires for extra injectors and vtec solenoid, and built crossovers for speakers. This definitely will be the most involved electrical project I have tackled. I am looking forward to learning alot.

I will do more reading on the ms'n's daughter board and EGT stuff.


I am trying make this as easy on myself as possible. I am going get the harness kit, just for the nicely labeled wires. I think I will skip the relay wire kit, as I want to mount the relay box and ecu next to each other in the cabin, so will just need a short 1' relay cable, and should be to snag those short lengths from the harness kit.

Do you have any recomendations for good and inexpensive sources for wire, heat shrink, looms, connectors?
http://partsexpress.com/

shadetree wrote:What is the reasoning behind loosing the relay for Fidle?

You don't WANT to loose it, thats the point. But with the early instals they jumpered around the fidle relay to get spark control out. I think that may have changed with the V3.0 setup as the V3.0 uses a differant default spark output pin.

shadetree wrote:Do you have any recomendations for good and inexpensive sources for wire, heat shrink, looms, connectors?
http://partsexpress.com/

If I tell you I have to kill you... I realy don't know where you would get connectors for yours. The least expensive bet is likely to snag a harness out of whatever car your stealing the EFI bits from.

As for the wire and heatshrink and the like, the internet is your freind. Since I make harnesses to sell, I don't give out my "special sources". But the MegaSquirt sellers have some of the basics.

shadetree wrote:I am not sure if I am going to be able to use the toy TPS and O2 sensors. The GM units use 3 wires, while toy ones use 4. The O2 sensor has 2 wires for the heater element....I am not sure whether to splice them together, or just use one, or what.

Most TPS sensors are the same. You will need to test it with a multimeter. If you don't have one, stop and go get one. Its almost impossible to do an install without one. Its likely the foerth wire is a switch, probally to ground for either idle or WOT. A manual should show this in the electrical diagrams. The oxegen sensor, read up some more on these in the MegaManual. 3 and 4 wire NB's are common.

shadetree wrote:WATER TEMP: lex

You have two wires, either one can be ground and signal.

shadetree wrote:AIR TEMP: need to get one. I might use a honda one I have laying around.

If you use the Honda or lex stuff on a ms-1 prosessor setup, your going to need to tweak the code with EasyTherm. You might be better off swapping the sensors over to the GM stuff. With a MS-2 processor setup its a lot easier to change sensors. Your going to need to get sensor curve values for any you use other than the GM ones.

shadetree wrote:Things I'd like to use, but not neccessary to run: Knock

Knock can be run with a controler setup or by building a controler circuit. Viatrack makes the KnockSenseMS that interfaces VERY nicely with the MS.

T3bunny, thanks for your help.
I am using MSII.

Kdog on Lextreme has helped me out alot as well. The following quotes are all Kdog.

I found a wiring diagram for the O2
1.RED ---HT1
2.BLK RED----B
3.BLK - 02 +
4.BRN - O2 - ground

Blk/Red goes to a switched +12V, its power for the heater, the Ht1 line switches to ground through the ECU to turn it on.

wiring diagram
http://www.lextreme.com/lexecc1.pdf
TPS
1- brn ---ground
2- grn ----switched
3- yel -- position out
4- blu-red- +5V

"Its a normal 3 wire TPS ie +5V power, Ground and position out. The 4the wire is an idle switch to ground.
Brown - Ground
Blue/Red - +5V
Signal is one of the other 2, not sure from the top of my head.

For idle speed control leave the Blk/Red wires disconnected.
The others can go to l1,lb 2a,2b,
Blue/Wht??? 1A
Yel/Red 1B
GrN/Yel 2A
Grn 2B
If this doesn't work switch the polarity of them around ie wires 1A and 1B or 2A and 2B until you get it to move correctly.

shadetree wrote:I have a 1uzfe and ford EDIS 8 coil pack setup. I am trying to sort out whether I can use some of the stock Toyota sensors.

well, add me in too. looking to do exactly the same now. Pending a trial install to confirm space and fit, I'm abandoning my Buick 455 and going with a 1UZ. I bought a SC400 earlier this summer and have *loved* this motor so I found a deal on a motor/trans/harness that I couldn't pass up. Picked it up yesterday, I've got more crap in my garage now...<sigh>

So a quick bump to get this back to the top and see how things are going with getting a Success Story together for the 1UZ

I'm building a Hot Rod with a 1UZFE. My plan is to run MS2extra and keep the duel disy set up and standard trigger wheels. At the moment I have the rolling chassis completed so it will be a little while before I have the engine running, but I have gathered most, if not all, of the info I require to do this.

devojet wrote:My plan is to run MS2extra and keep the duel disy set up and standard trigger wheels.

thought the std wheel was a 6 tooth - hows that going to work?

you on the forums at lextreme.com ?

The Crank wheel is a 12 tooth and there is a single tooth wheel on each inlet cam 180 a part. So I will connect the crank trigger as normal and add a second VR input for the cam triggers which will be combined together. I plan to use the origonal igniters to drive the coils. this setup will require the MS2extra firmware.

I'm on lextreme from time to time and use the same user name.

I remember seeing something about combining all the signals. But wouldn't it be easier (maybe more effective too) to just install a 36-1 crank wheel?

My Plan was to try and use what I had. Another option is to grind one of the teeth off the crank wheel to give me a 12-1 wheel and just run that.

interesting - looking around for info on 12-1 wheels and what functionality/effectiveness you lose by not having 36 teeth - but can't find anything. seem to recall something about edis requiring 36-1 wheels...

Your correct, you do have to have a 36-1 wheel for EDIS. The 12-1 won't work with EDIS.
All I can find is that a 12-1 will have slightly less accuracy during acceleration when used with the MS2extra code which has every tooth decoding.

trying to crack that dang balancer bolt so that I can get to the current wheel out and use it for a template to make a 36-1 to replace it with, man that bolt is on there