MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

I'm using a 4 window hall right now but I'm thinking of making a 36 window hall instead...anybody have any thoughts on that?

I have a lot of timing errors, i'm just wondering if this would help overall, I don't think there is a ton of slop in the dizzy as it is right now..any response is appreciated...

Anything I will run into doing this? (obviously they have to be uniform size and shape... I don't need a TDC mark in there huh? Would optical in still be useful in megatune? Would I use a toothed wheel of say 36 teeth one missing like an EDIS wheel?

Thanks in advance!

First Jim, thanks for your input. The extra windows were just a thought, I was thinking of the setup that they have on nissans mazdas etc CAS... I believe with 24 or 36 holes in a disc for more resolution.

I had a post going with bruce and he was saying that timing errors such as this are typically the result of delta t and rpm not being the same, like the PID routine for the ignition algorithm is guessing the position of the next window incorrectly... more resolution would help this... I tried tuning A B G and it didn't really get me anywhere, it was always a tradeoff....

I would love to go with a 60-2 wheel and they're only around $100 for the wheel that slides over my factory damper, then i need a vr sensor then i need an edis coil setup etc etc...

So grounding to the body of the car for even the wideband wiring is bad you say? I ran a ground wire straight from the battery - up to the MS relay board itself... i think i may have grounded my hall - to the body of the car with a relay block, you'r esaying that i should run it to the battery eh? BTW i've checked my resistance to ground etc and its 1 ohm or less to the head block etc.

BTW I have no spikes in rpm in megatune its from what i see perfectly fine... it fluctuates a bit but i thought it was from timing errors.... but wrapping the harness in foil seemed to help (i wrapped everthing CLT MAT RPM TPS everything.. )

I mean i'd lvoe to go 60-2 but ... i don't know if i want to have to mod and tune the pots and blah blah going into winter, maybe i'll try a jumper wire from the ground on the battery to my hall wiring and see if it helps.... any feedback is appreciated.

New Ignition wires are definite on the way, is there a plus to shielding the signal wire only for tach signal? it should be ok with 12v powering the hall and the ground in the jacket as well?

I've recently replaced my alternator too, 110 amps baby...and a new 4 hp starter... winter won't like me this year ;)..

All of my sensors but TPS and RPM ground through the relay board which goes to the battery negative post (not far away anyways.)

So, I've redone the wiring, ran a ground directly from the battery up to the sensors i didn't ground through the relay board(relay board has its own power / ground wires already.)

I don't know what to say but since I've wrapped the harness and redone the grounds etc, I swear the timing errors have gotten better because it feels like it has a lot more power, but then again it's getting colder out...

Any other things I should try / consider? If I can rid it of a bit more noise it's going to have rediculous torque...right now it's like somebody is retarding the heck out of the timing.

I think I may try the grounding mod by removing the xg1-2 and send it out on a spare to ground directly to the block or battery..

I put the shielded tach wire in, grounded the shield and xg1 to the head and a ton of noise is gone THE NOISE DID NOT SHOW UP IN MEGATUNE AT ALL.... so.. you may have noise but mt may just skip the pulses or something... i recommend grounding xg1 to the head! (for a hall style setup.)