MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

I am trying to select a fuel press. regulator and there are so many out there I can't tell the junk stuff from something that will work well. I am not interested in bling so much as I am function. Do any of you have any suggestions for a regulator that I should use? Of course it wouldn't hurt my feelings if it happens to be economical.

Thanks!

Your selection depends totally on your project. Port injection Vs Throttle body will affect pressure range selection. Are you boosting? Consider a rising rate regulator. Are you using an exotic fuel?

Share some info about your project, and that will help us help you. There are too many variables to even consider a blanket recommendation.

With Mega squirt and the Ve algorithm you don't need a rising rate regulator, In fact a rising rate regulator will make the ve table look weird.
A good manifold referenced regulator that is 1 to 1 rate will work well. Just be wary of cheep regs and the total horsepower of your application and specified flow rates of injectors @ rail pressure.

Of course, I should have divulged more info...

My project is a small block Mopar, 360 ci v8. It should be in the 400-450 hp range. Right now it is naturally aspirated, but I may go with a supercharger or a turbocharger in the long run. I am using port injection with 8 30lb injectors.

Again, I'm not necessarily looking for the latest greatest pressure regulator. However, I do have a couple of requirements.

First off, I am very picky about plumbing. I use exclusively AN hardware for all of my fuel supply needs. Thus the regulator will have to have some provision to utilize threaded connections of some sort, whether npt or otherwise. I don't do hose clamps on pressurized fuel lines. I was burned with gasoline on my leg as young enthusiast kid, and now I don't joke around with fuel leaks.

Additionally, I need for the regulator to be adjustable, and it would be nice if I had the ability to place a gauge on the reg, but this isn't absolutely required since I can easily tap into the fuel rail if necessary.

I attached hard lines to one of the cheap MSD (actually a rebadged Bosch) adjustable FPRs by sawing the barbs off and putting compression fittings over its tubes.

I've had good luck at summitracing.com. Jegs might be a good source too. Especially if you are using -AN style fittings. Even the store brand summit regulators come from decent manufacturers, and most have at least NPT fittings.

i recommend this one, i used it on several applications with great success so far >Aeromotive 13105< kinda pricey but worth it and sexy as only aeromotive can do it. I use one of these on my setupp MS'd 427 sbc twin turbo with 2 A1000 fuel pumps ant this thing never failed me.
and please stay away from the e bay crapp (eBAy gArBaGe)>> >>Aeromotive 13105 <<

Brand: Aeromotive
Product Line: Aeromotive Compact EFI Fuel Regulators
Part Type: Fuel Pressure Regulators
Part Number: AEI-13105
Fuel: Gasoline/Alcohol
Pressure Range (psi): 30-70
Regulator Style: Return
Regulator Location: Inline
Boost/Vacuum Reference Port: Yes
Boost/Vacuum Rise Ratio: 1:1
Gauge Port: Yes
Mounting Bracket Included: Yes
Fittings Included: Yes
Rebuildable: Yes
Inlet Quantity: Single
Inlet Attachment: Male threads
Inlet Size: -6 AN
Outlet Quantity: Single
Outlet Attachment: Male threads
Outlet Size: -6 AN
Return Fitting Size: -6 AN
Regulator Material: Aluminum
Regulator Finish: Red anodized
Quantity: Sold individually.

try Mallory 4305-m it comes with 2 number 8 an fitting inculded can be boost referenced if needed if not needed just don't hook the line up, and its cheap 100.00 summit or jegs and it can even handle meathonal also. Zane

daniel505gti wrote:With Mega squirt and the Ve algorithm you don't need a rising rate regulator, In fact a rising rate regulator will make the ve table look weird.

I strongly recommend running a RRFPR if you are running boost, or even plan to in the future. It only adjusts the fuel pressure under boost, so you can run it N/A if you want. I tried tuning with and without one and the stranger ,(and nonfunctional), VE table was without the RRFPR hooked up, (under boost).
Just my 2c.

Rising rate would add more fuel pressure than just keeping the pressure difference the same. This would cause ve's to flatten out as boost came on. I believe these were designed for systems without control of the tune. I would continue to Google / call some performance shops to see what they recommend doing.
The mega manual has a section on tuning for boost.

http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mtu ... #turbotune

If you did not have MegaSquirt® EFI Controller, you would need an add-on fuel controller, a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, or some other trick to add extra full when the boost comes on. With MegaSquirt® EFI Controller, though, you simply program in longer pulse widths via the VE table.

My project (normally aspirated port injection - I don't use the vacuum connection) has been running for a few weeks using the same Aeromotive as mentioned above (from Summit). As noted, a little pricey, but looks really nice and has worked well for me. I ordered a Mallory at first but didn't use it for some reason - don't remember why.

daniel505gti wrote:Rising rate would add more fuel pressure than just keeping the pressure difference the same. This would cause ve's to flatten out as boost came on. I believe these were designed for systems without control of the tune. I would continue to Google / call some performance shops to see what they recommend doing.
The mega manual has a section on tuning for boost.

http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mtu ... #turbotune

If you did not have MegaSquirt® EFI Controller, you would need an add-on fuel controller, a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, or some other trick to add extra full when the boost comes on. With MegaSquirt® EFI Controller, though, you simply program in longer pulse widths via the VE table.

Yes, the manual does state that using a RRFPR for boost applications is not needed, but if you search the forum discussions, you'll see that most boosted applications are using one. I tried with and without, and without a RRFPR would not run on my engine, and I had control of the tune. The pressure on the injector side is not the same when you build boost, and your VE numbers do not flatten out, they increase steadily.

Here we have a disagreement, not uncommon in forums. As your going normally aspirated it does not matter anyway. A standard 1/1 regulator will be fine.
If you decide to go boost I would see performance shops to get a idea of what they do. The advice I have received has been use a standard reg. this will keep the pressure differential the same and allow for good tuning. And this was seen with my ve’s. However I also suspect that individual setup has a lot to do with it. You would need a Rising rate if the injectors are a little small for example.

Without a doubt the Aeromotive unit is sexy, but not $160 worth of sexy! Will it make my car faster? Probably not. That's the question I ask. However I do like the AN fittings and that is one requirement I must fill. The Reg. must have an or npt fittings that I can adapt to AN.

I do like the Mallory unit, it's a pretty decent price and it has AN fittings. I can't tell by looking at it but do you know if a standard male AN fitting works with this?

Thanks for all the advice guys!

MrN2OBelvedere wrote:Right now it is naturally aspirated, but I may go with a supercharger or a turbocharger in the long run. I am using port injection with 8 30lb injectors.

If you plan on running either of these in the future, I still recommend getting the RRFPR. Remember, you can always unplug the hose going to it and it will maintain a steady fuel pressure. Remember, also, that boosting an engine is very similar to increasing the engine size, (a 350 CU. IN. engine under 14.7 LBS boost uses the same amount of air as a 700 CU. IN. engine). Your injectors will probably not be able to handle this extra flow of fuel without a fuel pressure increase. I maxed out my injector Duty Cycle when I unplugged my RRFPR under 10 LBS. turbo boost. I plugged it back in and now my Duty Cycle stays below %75. That RRFPR is quite a bit cheaper than a turbo or supercharger, and cheaper than an engine rebuild or new injectors.

Hi everybody!

Just a quick line about FPRs. I tried a cheap one that I got off eBay for >$50. I don't remember what I paid for it. It lasted just long enough for me to get it about 3 miles from home and it quit on me. I bit the bullet and went with the Aeromotive regulator. I had to save up for a couple weeks, but in the end, it has been running flawlessly for 3 seasons.

I have found on changing to Megasquirt from a carburator you are money ahead by buying the good stuff first. I know it's annoying to hear that, but I'll stand by that statement anytime.

good luck!

MrN2OBelvedere wrote:Without a doubt the Aeromotive unit is sexy, but not $160 worth of sexy! Will it make my car faster? Probably not. That's the question I ask. However I do like the AN fittings and that is one requirement I must fill. The Reg. must have an or npt fittings that I can adapt to AN.

I do like the Mallory unit, it's a pretty decent price and it has AN fittings. I can't tell by looking at it but do you know if a standard male AN fitting works with this?

Thanks for all the advice guys!

I'm with you, Mr Belvedere, I want AN stuff on everything. I shopped around a bit and found the Mallory 4305M to be the cheapest one to have AN ports and a gauge port (so I bought one).

As already mentioned, 2 of the ports are -8 O-ring style, and the regulator comes with -8 male AN fittings for those ports. So if you want -6 connections, you'll need to get different fittings. The rest of the ports are female NPT IIRC.