MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

I was careful to get power and ground from the same place as the MS. I used the alligator clip method I read on here and have the + clipped to the relay board key on power and the - is clipped the my ground junction for all engine/MS grounds.

I have read a pile of threads on how to make the reading from the LM1 and TS align. Here are a few data points:

With AFR at 14.0, voltage to TS is 3.3-3.5 volts
TS reads 16-17 afr
I have run the "Calibrate AFR" process

If I understand correctly my voltage should be close 2.45 at 14.0. I attempted ...

I have been hunting about for a good diagram for the TPS I have. I found this:

http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=29736.0

I have the oval shaped version at the top of the first diagram. This should allow me to hook it up right with each of the wires specified I can match them to the relay board. I ...

Thank you. I'll leave the injection wires alone.

For the TPS I just checked between the leads and when opening the throttle the resistance goes up. Is that correct?

I have an MSII V3.57 on a 289 Ford small block. Mustang intake and injectors. I am using the DIYAutoTune wiring harness. I have all of the left bank of injectors joined together to one wire and all the right bank all joined to another wire. I did this because my wiring bundle included one INJ1 and ...

Thanks guys. I am going to see what T options I can get and decide if double barb will do or if I need a short lenght of steel. I was not sure you could clamp on the nylon but with the metal inside that sounds solid.

I have my car plumbed in all OEM style nylon lines and connectors. The only problem I can't solve (aka stop leaking) is the return line ends at a hose barb that is pressed into the nylon. The other end is threaded and I have it threaded into a T. The threaded part is leaking and I think the threads ...

Closing the loop fellows. I finally broke down and went to the junk yard and bought a new coil and EDIS. Turns out one of my coils was BAD! I swapped the EDIS to see if it made any difference - nothing.

Thank you all for your help.

Off to my fuel side and continue my MS II install.

No - cylinders 1, 4, 8 were fouled. Each on it's own coil.

It seems like a type of cross-fire or miss-fire signal. But if it was really random and crazy I think I would get hot, violent pops out the intake and exhaust. These are little sneezes at idle.

If the compression stroke miss-fired, 180 ...

Took for a 1 mile test drive tonight. The miss fire is very present - sometimes worse sometimes almost hard to notice. I am back to thinking I have a bad component. But of course I have no idea which component. Would a log help diagnose? Can I back probe the signal going to the coils to see if they ...

The plugs are Motorcraft SP-420 / BSF42C.

I have also observed that the timing light picks up the spark in one direction for one cylinder and in the opposite direction for the other cylinder on the same coil. The arrow on the timing light pickup that say "to spark plug" needs to point to the coil ...

I cleaned the coil towers while looking for any carbon tracing - nothing. I removed all the plugs - 4 completely fouled. I closed the gaps from .050 to .030 cleaned and re-installed. My situation is much improved. I can actually drive it around in the driveway. I still have this miss that randomly ...

I disconnected the caps just as a check because I am running out of things to check. I have 14.2 v running at each coil.

I did a test on one coil tonight. This coil had one sparking fast and consistent and one that was sporadic in idle. When I move the wire that was sparking to the other post on ...

UPDATE! UPDATE!

I hope someone jumps on and reads this!

When I strobe each cylinder with the timing light I get some really interesting behavior that is very consistent. One wire on one cool fires very nicely and the timing light strobes very consistently and very fast. Switch to the other wire on ...

I just went over my wiring a 4,345th time and still things all make sense. I also ran ground wire from battery to coils and to EDIS mounting bracket no changes.

I checked the gap at the VR and it is .47, .042, .060, .065" or a total run out of .023 for highest to lowest. When running in park I ...

Could these symptoms be caused by run out in the trigger wheel? Maybe it is wobbling and when I put it in drive it gets worse. How can I test that?

I was really hoping someone would look at my log and sat "oh yeah its this" and maybe I had a software setting off but no luck.

Tonight I reversed the VR wires and it would not start. Switched them back still running poorly.

Any suggestions? I guess I need an EDIS module. I do not know what else ...

Yes I did a typo..sorry for that.

At idle my timing is 10 degrees. If I just hold the timing light and watch it, the light goes out once in a while. I assume this is happening on other cylinders also. I did run it with the MS disconnected and had the same behavior.

After the 25th time looking at my wiring I am still convinced it is correct. It is slightly different than the diagram above but I think I am still ok.

Old small block Ford firing order: 15426378
converted to EDIS speak:
ABCD
1532
6378

EDIS module post #8 goes to coil A which has plug wires 1/6 ...

I am trying to do this in stages so I am doing spark only at the moment so no TPS or wideband. I am letting my controlled fuel leak (aka carburetor) handle the fuel until I get the spark sorted. I have all the EFI bits on my work bench ready to go!