MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

That`s what I`m using, works a treat!

Yep, thats about it! you may want to run the heater from the fuel pump relay (or at least a relay that`s switched when the fp is on) so when you`re in the car with the engine off but ignition on the O2 heater isn`t running.

It is possible it dosen`t exist, the bosch hall sensor connector isn`t like a normal JTC if I remember correctly, similar but not identical..

VW use 3 pin JTC`s for Bosch hall senders.

I think they`re called Junior Timer Connectors, have a seach for that and see what comes up, I use http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk, postage may6 not be that bad?

Can you post a pic?

Hello, I`m running 027a extra code. I started off by running open loop on the hot engine and I got values in the 30`s (at freq 100), also tried with freq 200 (50hz).

Had a good hour on it and didn`t get very far, just had another go and set the hot idle with the stop, ISV at 25 (on 100 feq), set ...

Well had a go today with poor results really..

In idle control continued the Min Freqency dosn`t seem top work at all? and all the fast/slow idle rpm doesn`t seem to make any difference?

All I can think of doing is set the base idle with the screw and just use the 2 kPa corrected minimums to ...

Thanks again, read up on the specs in the VW G60 tech pdf and the valve is supplied with 400ma to 1200ma depending on load, so I`ll set hot idle at 1000 with the valve at 33% and go from there.

Can finally rip out the digi1 loom/ecu

Thanks for the help, a good wamup/ idle with the power steering active will be the icing on the cake for me :D, will have play with the settings tonight.

So valve closed with the 200 setting will be around 60, may aim for 35 and adjust the trottle stop top get me a good steady hot idle at 1000 rpm ...

Sorry to dig this back up from the dead :oops:

I`ve just installed my 2 pin Bosch idle valve, just a quesation for you Keith. You say run the valve at 50hz and double up the DC, so does that mean the useable range is in the 60 to 80 range?

Also by altering the config I assume you just mean what ...

Probably have to fit the ABF manifold/rail/injectors as a complete set?

The ABF`s use shorter injectors, if you need to upgrade the injectors you`ll also have to fit another rail, I`ve never seen one on a 9a but the heads are just about identical..

There`s been a few instances of the turbo blades pitting even with high pressure pumps and nozzles ( I think people put it down to droplets forming on the sides of the inlet to the turbo?).

As gielamonster says after the turbo is the only safe solution and the only time I`ve seen boost being used ...

Best thing I did to mine was removing the "crap flap" .

I use the BBM one and the rail is very well machined and finished. The rail that fits inside the curve of the inlet looks quite a neat solution though!

Also check it`s for EFI`d bikes (made in the last 2 years), earlier ones have remote pumps for carbs and would be useless for electronic injectors. IIRC most injected bikes have the pumps built into the tanks, not remote.

Yep, I converted my car from K-Jet (Constant Injecton System), to Digi1 (Batch fire) to MS on bank fire.

People slated the k-jet for flowing fuel all the time but being hydraulic the throttle responce was perfect, just not that much use for forced induction and the air flap looks restrictive ...