The MegaSquirt Project has experienced explosive growth other the years, with hundreds of new MS installations occurring every week - a phenomenal success! MegaSquirt has been successfully used in all aspects of Internal Combustion engine applications including R&D, Industry, Race, and Research. The MS project has transformed itself from a simple R&D project into a full-featured mature engine control system. To reflect this the support structure has also changed to meet the needs of MegaSquirt Users.
Moving forward, the R&D forums for MegaSquirt project are in a read-only mode - no new forum posts are accepted.
However the forums will remain available for view, they still contain a wealth of information on how MegaSquirt works, how it is installed and used. Feel free to search the forums for information, facts, and overview.While the R&D forum traffic has slowed in recent years, this is not at all a reflection of Megasquirt users, which continue to grow year after year. What has changed is that the method of MegaSquirt support today has rapidly moved to Facebook, this is where the vast majority of interaction is happening now. For those not on Facebook the msextra forums is another place for product support. Finally, for product selection assistance, all of the MegaSquirt vendors are there to help you select a system, along with all of the required pieces to make it complete.
For discussing how to choose sensors and create a wiring harness for all Bowling and Grippo versions of the MegaSquirt® EFI controller.
Forum rules Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. Many users will not reply if the answer is already available in the manual.
If your question is about troubleshooting, configuration, or tuning, you MUST include your processor type (MS-I or MS-II) and code version in your post. If your question is about PCB assembly or modifications, you must also include the main board version number (1.01, 2.2 or 3.0).
This might sound like a stupid question but I want to ask it anyway. On the MSII there is the Silver Coaxial wire that goes to the Crank position sensor. There is a wire like mesh around a white wire. I need to legnthen that wire. Is there any specific way to do this?
Also I have a CPS I bought from Boost engineering and a trigger wheel from DIYAutoTune. The CPS has a blue wire and a green wire. Does anyone know which wire is power and which wire is ground?
1998 Dodge Avenger ES with 6g75 swap and a543 transmission--- Megasquirt II
2005 Dodge Ram SRT-10 Quad Cab- Magnaflow, Q-forms, Components, 7" indash DVD
2007 Honda CBR1000RR- Power Commander, Custom Acura TSX HID, K&N, Michelin Pilot Powers
You may have to lengthen the outer wire by cutting back the gray outer insulation, gather up the outer shield wire and twist into a pig tail and solder a length of regular wire to it.
Remember, only solder the shield to ground on the MegaSquirt end.
I would contact Boot Engineering to find out which wire is power and which is ground.
In my experience it is not recommended to splice coax, I would replace it with a longer wire. The FORD EDIS is a 2 wire pickup and even though it it has a wiring diagram you can still end up switching the 2 wires to get the correct polarity. I would hook up the wires and then if required switch them, I would replace that single coax for 2 wire shielded cable http://www.DIYAutoTune.com/catalog/wire ... p-123.html this will help with any noise problems.
While splicing coax is a pain, I'd probably go about it in this manner if I had to do it.
1. Join inner wires together with a solder joint or uninsulated butt splice.
2. Cover the center wire joint with heat shrink tubing.
3. Pull the foil wraps / braids as close to each other as you can get them and solder. If necessary, use some stranded wire to extend them.
4. Cover with bigger heat shrink tubing.
That's pretty much what I did. I twisted a bunch of the braided wire and soldered that to some regular wire and heat shrinked the connection. I then stripped the inside wire and entended that and hear shrinked that wire. I then heatshrinked them both again, and wrapped the wires in electrical tape. Then wire loom, and wrapped that also in electrical tape.... never too careful
I would have purchased that 10' long extension but that wouldn't have been long enough still.
My only issue still is that I do not know which wire is power and ground on the sensor side. Again, the sensor has a green and a blue wire coming off of it.
Any help with that is appreciated.
1998 Dodge Avenger ES with 6g75 swap and a543 transmission--- Megasquirt II
2005 Dodge Ram SRT-10 Quad Cab- Magnaflow, Q-forms, Components, 7" indash DVD
2007 Honda CBR1000RR- Power Commander, Custom Acura TSX HID, K&N, Michelin Pilot Powers
I really need to know how I can discern which wire (green or blue) is the power/ground for this crank position sensor that I bought from www.boostengineering.com
Please help.
Peter
1998 Dodge Avenger ES with 6g75 swap and a543 transmission--- Megasquirt II
2005 Dodge Ram SRT-10 Quad Cab- Magnaflow, Q-forms, Components, 7" indash DVD
2007 Honda CBR1000RR- Power Commander, Custom Acura TSX HID, K&N, Michelin Pilot Powers
you can use a volt meter and a trigger wheel to detirmine the polarity. Set your trigger wheel up steady and pass your sensor over it with the wires attached to your volt meter. I have had to check a few that way and have another to check soon.
My MegaSquirt build 85 S-15 Jimmy 350/th350 TPI MS2 2.905 hei 8pin
1983 s-10 350 tpi injection MS2 soon
1984 s-10 Blazer 350/th350 and will get an MS2 tbi.
1973 Nova 5.3/glide 76mm turbo. MS3X
I guess I'll have to try that. It sure is a pain in the behind that boost engineering didn't tell me which was which- especially with their kits being as expensive as they are.
1998 Dodge Avenger ES with 6g75 swap and a543 transmission--- Megasquirt II
2005 Dodge Ram SRT-10 Quad Cab- Magnaflow, Q-forms, Components, 7" indash DVD
2007 Honda CBR1000RR- Power Commander, Custom Acura TSX HID, K&N, Michelin Pilot Powers