How to test if injectors and sensors work

For discussing injector selection,manifold modifications, throttle bodies, fuel supply system design and construction, and FIdle valves and IACs.
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david martin
MegaSquirt Newbie
Posts: 30
Joined: Sun Feb 13, 2011 10:12 pm

How to test if injectors and sensors work

Post by david martin »

I purchased a Ford 5.0 port injection intake manifold with injectors, fuel rails and throttle body. I'm unsure if the injectors, TPS and IAC Sensors work.

The injectors I believe are motorcraft brand model number E5TE-A3B. Is there a way to check operation other than installing and plugging them in? On a couple of the injectors, the plastic cup at the tip is cracked. Can this part be replaced or will I need to replace the entire injector? How about the rubber O rings at each end? Lastly are the female connector plugs available or will I need to buy a wiring harness on ebay and cut them off?

Is there a way to check the TPS and IAC on the bench?

Thanks
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trakkies
Super Squirter
Posts: 1162
Joined: Tue Dec 30, 2008 3:06 am
Location: SW London, UK

Re: How to test if injectors and sensors work

Post by trakkies »

Measure the resistance of the injectors. They should all be approx. the same. In the UK Burlen Fuel systems sell spares (like the pintel cap) for some Bosch injectors, so I'd guess others do too. The plug appears to be a Junior Timer type so again easily available here.
Both IAT and CTS normally vary their resistance with temperature so can be checked with a DVM. The manual gives details of the common ones' resistance at various tempertures.

The TPS is usually just a potentiometer. Same as a volume control on an amplifier. if you apply volts to the track - no more than 5, from say a small battery - the output should vary smoothly from min to max as you turn it.

If you can find a complete used engine loom from a car fitted with your manifold, that can provide an economical basis for your MS loom. Find the car wiring diagram, and note the wiring colours the maker uses, and cross reference to the MS one. If the loom is long enough you should be able to wire most of it direct to either the MS DB37 or relay board avoiding extra connections where not needed.
It is good practice to draw out the wiring diagram for your individual installation showing the wiring colours you've actually used anyway - will make any fault finding at a later date so much easier.
Dave P, London UK.
Rover V-8
MSII V3
EDIS
Tech Edge Wideband
david martin
MegaSquirt Newbie
Posts: 30
Joined: Sun Feb 13, 2011 10:12 pm

Re: How to test if injectors and sensors work

Post by david martin »

Thank you Dave! I still have alot to learn, but you saved me alot of time by pointing me in the right direction.

Have a wonderful Christmas.
convertables_10
Helpful Squirter
Posts: 104
Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2010 9:18 am

Re: How to test if injectors and sensors work

Post by convertables_10 »

Hey Dave I have a text file is done that way. Most of my factory harness was coded according to the megamanual colors. It has been one of my best diagnostic i have. Im building a new harness for my tpi project.
My MegaSquirt build 85 S-15 Jimmy 350/th350 TPI MS2 2.905 hei 8pin
1983 s-10 350 tpi injection MS2 soon
1984 s-10 Blazer 350/th350 and will get an MS2 tbi.
1973 Nova 5.3/glide 76mm turbo. MS3X
trakkies
Super Squirter
Posts: 1162
Joined: Tue Dec 30, 2008 3:06 am
Location: SW London, UK

Re: How to test if injectors and sensors work

Post by trakkies »

Sadly the MS colours bear no relation to the BS ones my UK car uses - so to avoid confusion I used BS ones. The BS colour for 12 volt positive unfused is brown - yet Europe uses brown as ground. So it's as well to stick to just the one system. :D
Dave P, London UK.
Rover V-8
MSII V3
EDIS
Tech Edge Wideband
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