edis help plz

[Payko0o]

ok i have decided to use edis on my build heres the thing
all ive been reading is wireing for v3 but i have a 3.57 witch is still a v3

anyways my question is do i still have to solder in jumpers internaly ??? or is there tabs to move
note: i havent phisically looked inside the box just doin some reading before i get in over my head

[DonTZ125]

Reading is always good. Start with the V3.57 intro http://www.megamanual.com/357/intro.htm, then the schematics http://www.megamanual.com/357/hardware.htm - the input section is the 3rd panel.

Now that you have an idea of what the heck you're looking at, read the EDIS mods http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm about 2/3 down the page. Note that these instructions are for the V3.0 board, and will need a little thought to apply to the V3.57.











OK, fine, cheat - see if I care!

DB37 pin #36 to the SAW pin (#3) on the ignition module
DB37 pin #24 to the PIP pin (#1) on the ignition module
JP1 (bottom right of the board) - jumper cap across 2-3
J1 (just below R52 pot) - jumper cap across 1-2
Solder a wire jumper across XG1-XG2 (slightly up and left from J1)
Solder a wire jumper from JS10 (beside 40-pin chip on right) to CENTER pin hole of Q16 (top right of the board - Q16 is not installed)
Solder a wire jumper from the bottom of D1 (bottom of the board an inch to the left of JP1) to the right side of D2 (up and left from D1)

Good luck!

[DonTZ125]

Whoops - CENTER pin hole of Q16!

[Payko0o]

ok she you cheat makes cents i have been reading the manual behind much as i can to learn more
its just alot of info to take in at on time for me but little by little ill get this figured out

thanks for you help
regards the noob
lol

[Payko0o]

ohh and one more thing by useing edis from what i read i wont need anymore tirggers or anything for fuel correct "?

[DonTZ125]

I believe so.

[Payko0o]

ok i know its been a while.. but i finnaly got time to play with this i opend the ms3 3.57 and evrything was already there except for the last step jumpre from d1 to d2 now im lost cuz im not shure if i should or not does anybody know if you absolutely need to jumper there two points to use edis with a v3.57 from DIYAutoTune

[Payko0o]

to also add it looks like there is a trace under here from d1 to d2 but its kinda hard to tell

[DonTZ125]

I think you misunderstood the page (or I'm misreading your comment) - you aren't trying to jumper BETWEEN D1 and D2 (as you say, there's a trace there!) but rather OVER D1 and D2. The idea is to bypass D1 and D2 and effectively remove them from the circuit; if you were building a V3.0 board as a kit, you'd simply eliminate the 2 diodes and replace them with wires. Just wire a jumper from pin 1 to pin 2 of D1, then repeat the process with D2.

[Payko0o]

ok ... thank god i decided to wait untill i got the sensor and T-wheel in lace before i started to solder / de solder

i literally have no way to mount the sensor ware it wont hit or rub on other parts .. and the one place i can put the sensor it will be too flimsy
so im going to have to use a different ignition system..... the cars factory crank sensor is a 60-2 and the system is wasted spark
i see that the bosh system would work but i only see it working for a single coil or am i wrong ... i feel like a confused person .....
any ideas ???

[DonTZ125]

Ah, the shocked cry of the DIY'er - "What do you mean, it doesn't fit?!" (insert bang-head smiley)


Well, that 60-2 crank trigger will certainly work; if it's a VR sensor, you'll probably want to install a 10k resistor in-line with the input signal to the MS.

How many cylinders in your engine? If this is a 4-cyl, then you can use the later editions of B&G MicroSquirt code with the "DualSpark" feature to drive your coils. See the MicroSquirt manual for a description of the DualSpark option, as well as the modifications needed to make it work on the MS2 card (3/4 down the page, after the coil pictures). These mods aren't HARD, but they are delicate. Since you're using a single input, use the "Second fix" procedure below the line of red text. This will save you having to unplug your coils when using the bootloader to flash code.

Are these "smart" coils, with integral drivers (only need a 5v signal to fire, can be driven directly), or "dumb" coils that need high-energy drivers? You'll need a BIP373 (or equivalent) + 330 ohm base resistor for each channel for the "dumb" option.

If you have more than 4 cylinders, or if you aren't up to the mods on the MS2 card, you can look at the Extra code. It still needs hardware mods, but these are to the main board and can be done far more easily by those of us with stubby fingers. Further discussion (if interested) will have to happen over on the Extra forum, or I'll get scolded by the mods again (oops).

[Payko0o]

the engine is a 4cyl wasted spark the factory ecu is a bosh motronics 55 pin conector the same as e30 bmw but in a hyundai

this kinda sucks cuz i bought a 3.57 ms2 were there isnt much info on mods even tho its the same as a 3.0 just suface mount a teedy bit
harder to work with without proper tools but what ever im done crying now im lookin for the solution

thanks for the help by the way i do get kinda lost in this im more of a engine guy

[Beau M]

I am in the same boat as the original poster. I was hoping that no soldering would need to be done with the 3.57 board, but it looks like there is. I am not going to atempt it, I am terrible at soldering. So I will have to take it to an elecrical repair shop or something. Just to verify, this is what needs to be done right?

"
JP1 (bottom right of the board) - jumper cap across 2-3
J1 (just below R52 pot) - jumper cap across 1-2
Solder a wire jumper across XG1-XG2 (slightly up and left from J1)
Solder a wire jumper from JS10 (beside 40-pin chip on right) to left pin hole of Q16 (top right of the board - Q16 is not installed)
Solder a wire jumper from the bottom of D1 (bottom of the board an inch to the left of JP1) to the right side of D2 (up and left from D1)

"

Thanks!

-Beau

[BreakDancer]

I am in the same boat as the original poster. I was hoping that no soldering would need to be done with the 3.57 board, but it looks like there is. I am not going to atempt it, I am terrible at soldering. So I will have to take it to an elecrical repair shop or something. Just to verify, this is what needs to be done right?

"
JP1 (bottom right of the board) - jumper cap across 2-3
J1 (just below R52 pot) - jumper cap across 1-2
Solder a wire jumper across XG1-XG2 (slightly up and left from J1)
Solder a wire jumper from JS10 (beside 40-pin chip on right) to left pin hole of Q16 (top right of the board - Q16 is not installed)
Solder a wire jumper from the bottom of D1 (bottom of the board an inch to the left of JP1) to the right side of D2 (up and left from D1)

"

Thanks!
-Beau

NO!! you missed a post

Whoops - CENTER pin hole of Q16!

Please read the manual and verify this before having any work done Im NOT familer with the 3.57 board.