MS3 main board looks like it melted alittle???
Forum rules
Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. Many users will not reply if the answer is already available in the manual.
If your question is about troubleshooting, configuration, or tuning, you MUST include your processor type (MS-I or MS-II) and code version in your post. If your question is about PCB assembly or modifications, you must also include the main board version number (1.01, 2.2 or 3.0).
If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra code configuration or tuning, please post them at www.msextra.com Such questions posted here will be moved to: a temporary MSextra sub-forum, where they will be removed after 7 days
The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. Many users will not reply if the answer is already available in the manual.
If your question is about troubleshooting, configuration, or tuning, you MUST include your processor type (MS-I or MS-II) and code version in your post. If your question is about PCB assembly or modifications, you must also include the main board version number (1.01, 2.2 or 3.0).
If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra code configuration or tuning, please post them at www.msextra.com Such questions posted here will be moved to: a temporary MSextra sub-forum, where they will be removed after 7 days
The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
-
FRslimmyjim
- MegaSquirt Newbie
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 9:54 am
MS3 main board looks like it melted alittle???
Hi, I am building a ms3 and this is the first time doing anything like this but ive done my research. The soldering iron i was using i just found out was a 30w and thats too much. the main board actually looks like it melted alittle. Did i just mess everything up?? the soldering is good and not bridging but it looks like the green is melted alittle. It is on the 9 pin connector. thanks guys i hope i didnt mess anything up
-
DonTZ125
- Experienced Squirter
- Posts: 337
- Joined: Sat May 16, 2009 1:49 pm
- Location: Scarborough, ON
- Contact:
Re: MS3 main board looks like it melted alittle???
You really have to work at it to melt the solder mask or the fibreglass board itself. What you may be looking at is a build-up of flux - it can look like the surface is all melted. Try cleaning it with some alcohol; if the "melt" starts to vanish, you're good. 
-
FRslimmyjim
- MegaSquirt Newbie
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 9:54 am
Re: MS3 main board looks like it melted alittle???
What kind of alcohol? Like rubbing alcohol?
-
Matt Cramer
- Super Squirter
- Posts: 2951
- Joined: Sat Jul 03, 2004 11:35 am
Re: MS3 main board looks like it melted alittle???
That will work. So will denatured alcohol.FRslimmyjim wrote:What kind of alcohol? Like rubbing alcohol?
-
DonTZ125
- Experienced Squirter
- Posts: 337
- Joined: Sat May 16, 2009 1:49 pm
- Location: Scarborough, ON
- Contact:
Re: MS3 main board looks like it melted alittle???
Yes, but be careful - you want 70% or 99% Isopropyl Alcohol; the stuff sold as "Rubbing alcohol" often has things like Camphor Oil, which will make your MS smell nice, but won't do much for the electronics.
Re: MS3 main board looks like it melted alittle???
In the UK it's commonly called IPA - isopropyl alcohol. Is that the same as rubbing alcohol? It comes in varying degrees of purity - the purer being more expensive. Think a 75% type is fine at a decent price. There are also branded flux removers from the likes of DigikeyFRslimmyjim wrote:What kind of alcohol? Like rubbing alcohol?
If you intend doing much in the way of soldering, get a 50 watt low voltage solder station. One where spare bits etc of various sizes are easily available. A used good make can be a better buy than a new no name one.
Dave P, London UK.
Rover V-8
MSII V3
EDIS
Tech Edge Wideband
Rover V-8
MSII V3
EDIS
Tech Edge Wideband
Re: MS3 main board looks like it melted alittle???
A generic 30W is what i used along with a fancy multi watt dial up affair. The higher watt irons are nie as all the connections are literally .5 seconds of heating and touching the solder to the opposite side of the component. I found the 45 degree point that makes a nice 90 degree contact with the board pad and the component wire works better than the conical point of the higher priced iron in 99% of the solder junctions. If you are heating for more than 1 second, get off it and let the iron Heat up some more. Nothing short of the db anchors needs more heat than that. Just heat for .5 second and touch the solder to it, it should immediantly suck into the through hole and Cone or actually climb up the compnent wire. You get the feel of it after about 5 connections. Youll be flying after that.