MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

I have to install a fuel return barb fitting on the end of a 2000 Ford Escort 2 liter Zetec fuel rail. The rail appears to be made of chrome plated steel tubing with the end caps and bungs soldered or welded on. I guess I will have to build up the end cap, sweat solder or tig a plate on, so I can drill and tap for a ¼” pipe threaded barb fitting.
Has anyone worked with this fuel rail and done this job? How are the caps attached? Soldered or welded with what filler?
Thank you for any help or ideas on how to do this.

Just a guess, but looks like it could be silver soldered, I use the stuff quite a bit for making tool bits, it's quite strong.

Mike

If the end is thick enough, you can just drill and tap it for the fitting and you're done. You can drill it to check the thickness, as you have to drill it whether you tap it or weld a bung on. NPT fittings are tapered and will seal very well with a little teflon tape. If it is under 1/8 inch thick, however, you should attach a bung.
That plating could be several things, but probably not chrome. If it is gold colored, (as it appears in the photo), it is probably zinc or cadmuim plating and will buff right off with a wire wheel. Check with a magnet to verify you are dealing with steel and not aluminum. If it is aluminum, that is gold alodine, (chemical conversion coating or irridite). All of these will buff off with a wire wheel. Chrome should be difficult to buff off with a wire wheel.
In the event you do have to attach a bung, and it is steel underneath the plating, silver solder will do the trick nicely. Plain old solder should work too, but silver solder will be much stronger. Brazing is going to get that sucker really hot, so I wouldn't try that unless all else fails.
If it is aluminum, it could be thick enough to drill and tap. If not. you'll need a TIG welder to attach a bung. In this event, I'd just toss it and make a new fuel rail as described in the Manual.
BTW, be sure you clamp this thing before you drill it as thin metal will "grab" the drill and suck it out of your hands immediately upon breakthrough.

devastator wrote: BTW, be sure you clamp this thing before you drill it as thin metal will "grab" the drill and suck it out of your hands immediately upon breakthrough.

Devastator speaketh the truth on this point. No part or job is too small to not potentially hurt you really badly when applying power tools.

-Mike, proud (not so much...) possessor of a 25 suture, 25 year old scar from an incident where it was *obvious* the smjall, thin metal work couldn't possibly hurt a human...

devastator wrote: Devastator speaketh the truth on this point. No part or job is too small to not potentially hurt you really badly when applying power tools.

21 years in a machine shop will teach you a thing or 2 about drilling holes.
I also neglected to mention that the cap on the end of that fuel rail is already welded on and will probably come off if you apply enough heat to solder a bung on.

It looks like silver solder to me also. It also looks like chrome plating instead of being anodized. It is a hard coating. The close up images were taken under an incandescent light bulb which gives off the golden color.
Thanks for the heads up on holding the rail while drilling. I was drilling the floor pan on the car I am building with a very old, heavy and good ½ “ drill motor and thought I broke my wrist as it grabbed going through the pan.
I forgot to pick up a bung while at the store today so it will be tomorrow until I do any welding.
Thanks for the replies.

Only aluminum alloys and magnesium can be anodized, so it's likely chrome or nickel. Chrome will "peel" off and nickel won't.

Use a bit like this for drilling in thin metal. They are kinda expensive, but save lots of time!

A number of different companies make them, Unibit has become a standard calling-card name for them.

Those Unibits work really well. Just watch for a loose burr on the inside of the rail.

Another thing to be aware of re the step drills/UnaBits - cooling, lube and patience will extend the life of these expensive tools. If you overheat and take the temper out of a smaller step than what you need, it turns into an ugly paperweight...

-Mike

i put the same kind of fitting in my fuel rail from a bmw 318i. i just drilled the hole slightly larger than the fitting, and brazed it in. it is easier to get a sealed joint with brazing or soldering, especially if you weld like i do.