MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

What plug wires is everyone using for their EDIS setup?

Since I plan to mount my coils in a custom location, I was hoping to get my hands on a universal kit so I can ensure all of my wires are the right length.

However, I can't seem to find a universal/build you own kit that had the proper boots for the EDIS coil packs.

Can anyone offer any suggestions?

I removed the ends from the stock edis plug wires and put them on aftermarket custom length wires.

Slowride wrote:I removed the ends from the stock edis plug wires and put them on aftermarket custom length wires.

Sweet! I didn't know it was possible to remove the ends. What's the process for removing them?
And while I'm at it... Will the stock ends fit over a thick performance wire, or should I stick to something smaller and closer to the stock wire size?

BottleFed70 wrote:Sweet! I didn't know it was possible to remove the ends. What's the process for removing them?

Just uncrimp them. I used needlenose pliers. Eventually, I got a set of plug wires for a modular V8 and used the four longest wires out of it. My homemade wires kept coming apart.

The EDIS wires have a special HT plug in at the coil end. This consists of a plastic "cage" part,
a silicone rubber isolation part and a brass conductor part. It is easy to disassemble.
First, just cut of the ht lead about 50 mm from the EDIS coil plug.
Take the plug assemblies and put them in warm water with a detergent, and let them
stay there for day. Take up and clean-
Hold the Cage part with the plug in part facing away from you.There is a square notch in the rounded cage part where a
tang of the isolant sticks up. Use a small screwdriver to depress the tang and gently push the isolation silicone rubber out thru the
cage part.
Take an even smaller screwdriver and insert along the ht lead to break the bond between the HT wire and the isolation part.
Spray in a bit of 5.56 or similar. It is now easy to push on the 50 mm HT lead that sticks out and at the same time gently pull
on the brass part.
Voila, the htlead/brass part is free.
Remove the HT wire from the bass y bending up the brass clamp parts.

Get resistor silicone pro q HT lead stock and assemble the EDIS connectors .

Fit the leads , cut to length and attach plug conectors. Piece of cake!!



Heribert

Heribert wrote:The EDIS wires have a special HT plug in at the coil end. This consists of a plastic "cage" part,
a silicone rubber isolation part and a brass conductor part. It is easy to disassemble.
First, just cut of the ht lead about 50 mm from the EDIS coil plug.
Take the plug assemblies and put them in warm water with a detergent, and let them
stay there for day. Take up and clean-
Hold the Cage part with the plug in part facing away from you.There is a square notch in the rounded cage part where a
tang of the isolant sticks up. Use a small screwdriver to depress the tang and gently push the isolation silicone rubber out thru the
cage part.
Take an even smaller screwdriver and insert along the ht lead to break the bond between the HT wire and the isolation part.
Spray in a bit of 5.56 or similar. It is now easy to push on the 50 mm HT lead that sticks out and at the same time gently pull
on the brass part.
Voila, the htlead/brass part is free.
Remove the HT wire from the bass y bending up the brass clamp parts.

Get resistor silicone pro q HT lead stock and assemble the EDIS connectors .

Fit the leads , cut to length and attach plug conectors. Piece of cake!!



Heribert

Heribert, you rock buddy! Thank-you!

Couple of questions:
- "5.56" I've never heard of this. Sounds like a penetrating oil, is that correct?
- What is "resistor silicone" and "pro q HT lead stock"?

5-56 Is a rather common spray thingee that claims to improve everything.It certainly has great
penetration power . Most any spray bottle that claims to improve electrical contacts and attack corrosion will do.

The resistor silicone hiQ HT leads is :

Resistor = The conductor has a rather high resistance , often about 10 kOhms per m. Perfect for EDIS
Silicone= The outer isolation part is made of silicone rubber which has great properties and survives well in an engine bay
Also, available in a range of cool colors!!
hiQ= There are many stock spark leads out there. Avoid the cheap ones , shy away from what feels a bit stiff and make sure that the
conductor part remains as a " wire " when you strip off the outer silicone sheath. That more or less guarantees that the lead will last

Buying a well known brand is probably the safe way to go.


Another possibility is copper core T wire , which definitely requires resistor spark plugs!
That is what I have used on a straight six Iam tinkering with. A total rebuild and MS Extra and EDIS 6.Works great. A minor
hiccup occure some weeks ago. The starter ring gear which is shrunk onto the flywheel decided to loosen up.
Watching the ring gear spin happily around while the flywheel is stationary is quite an experience!!

However, today a new goes on wit tolerance u8 U2, Will require 300 C differential temp but it will stay put!!

Heribert

Here is another take on this. On a wasted spark 4 cylinder, there are 2 different orientations you can mount the coil by rotating it 90 degrees. If the wires that you have are all different lengths, there are 4 different wires to choose from for the first position on the coil, that leaves 3 wire to choose from for the second position, 2 to choose from for the third position, and you have no choice (1) for the last position. Then, you have 2 different wires to choose from to connect to the first spark plug (wasted Spark), 2 to choose from for the second spark plug, 1 choice for the third and 1 choice for the last. That gives you 2X4x3x2x1x2x2x1x1= 192 theoretical different choices to run your 4 wires and orient your coil on a wasted spark 4 cylinder with a coil pack. This assumes that the shortest wire could be used for the longest run - probably not true depending on where you mount your coil so this isn't entirely accurate for every situation. But add to that some freedom in how you curve and arrange them exactly which can change the length of each run significantly, and you have well over 192 different choices to run 4 different fixed wire lengths. IF you have a little freedom in where to mount your coil and how to orient it, I'll bet one of them will look pretty good - using the wires as they come from the manufacturer - if you work with them a bit.

I picked aftermarket Ford Focus SOHC EDIS wires from MSD and an aftermarket FORD EDIS coil from Accel for use on my custom setup. Using 3 wire guides and the wires as they came from MSD, I came up with the arrangement below. It took me about two hours (I think I went through about 1/2 of my 192 choices) and when I started I thought there was no way - a total ugly mess. But here is what I ended up with and the wires are unmolested and I think it looks pretty good. (Now if i could just get rid of all those d@mn ugly hose clamps!)

Thanks!

So I need to make sure that I don't buy solid core/low resistance wire, or do I need to buy some sort of specific high-resistance wire?

I was thinking about buying this: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

Would it work (with correct coil boots of course)?