MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

MS v.III
2.68 embedded code
.7 - .9 volts AC from the VR Sensor to the EDIS module

From what I have been reading from other threads is you need to be over a volt for megasquirt to recieve a RPM Signal from the EDIS, I think...... and was hopeing for a little more insight. I have already replaced the VR sensor with a brand new one with no success. I was pondering moving the sensor closer to bump the signal but am already .026" away from the wheel and the mega manual says the spacing should be .030" to .060", and am kinda lost on where to go from here. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

John

Please check and see if you're getting spark from the EDIS module.

well I finally had time to check if there was any output coming from the EDIS. with the car off I got battey voltage on all three channels, with the key on (not cranking) I get 1.97 volts, and while cranking I get 1.2 - 1.35 volts, no spark. the EDIS is wired to a MSD DIS4. Any help is greatly appreciated.

It is very important that the VR signal wires are twisted and shielded.

On one install I told my buddy to get as much of the twisted pair/shield from the yard that he could. He came back with about a 12in lead when we needed about 4 - 5ft. We tried to make our own twisted pair with shielding and the car would never blink the rpm signal no the MS until the VR wire was replaced with normal FORD shielded wire.

I am using the original ford factory pig tail from the VR sensor, the wires aren't twisted but they are shielded, do you possibly have any pics of your setup? I will try twisting the signal wires and see if that helps bump the signal at all, thanx.

I went back and tried twisting the signal wires to no avail. I did some more searching and dug up some info from ford reiterating the fact that the EDIS needs to see more than one volt ac from the VR sensor to work, and was curious if everyone that has this set-up working on their car has more than one volt ac from the VR sensor to the EDIS?

I was able to get the signal from the VR sensor up over a volt and a half, but for some reason I am still getting no rpm signal from the EDIS, I have checked continuity between pin 1 on the EDIS and pin 24 on the MS harness and get .3 of an ohm, so the wireing should be good. Any ideas are welcome, as I am kinda at a loss. Thanx in advance.

Come on......... no one? I know there are a lot of people with this set-up on their car, no one has any suggestions?? what about the people that sell and install this EMS on cars, nobody has any ideas???? I am at the end of my rope here, please help.

Verify correct wiring as per the MSmanual for EDIS 6
Then take it methodically as follows
Switch on the ignition.
Make sure you have + 12 V to a known good earth point on pin 8 on the EDIS
Connect + lead of Vmeter to battery +. Make sure you have ground by connecting Vmeter- to pin 9 and then pin 7( 9 and 7 are internally
connected). Vmeter must read battery voltage
Make sure you have + 12 V feed on pin 4 on the coil pack.
Measure the voltage on pin 1 (PIP). Needs to be around battery voltage when not cranking.
Start cranking and the voltage on pin 1 shall dive to zero 3 times per crankshaft revolution.
If this does not happen switch VR lead polarity.
Try again with pin 1.
If you get 3 pulses per crankrev there will be spark at least for a short period.
No go or just a short period of rpmsignal and then dead??
Make sure that you have at least 5 kiloohms in each sparkplug lead+ plug. EDIS really do need resistor plugs.
There is a function that shuts down ignition at shorted, sooty etc plugs , sensitive to HT resistance.
Very unlikely that module is faulty, they seem to take any kind of abuse. Not even I have managed to spoil
one

EDIS can be sensitive to coilpack L and R. Sure way is to run with original EDIS coils.

Heribert

I checked output on pin one of the EDIS and I do get battery voltage when not cranking but once you start cranking I still only get battery voltage, it never drops to zero. I did try switching the VR leads and all the wireing one more time, pin 8 has a good ground, pins 7 and 9 have battery voltage, and my plug wires are 6.8 kilohms. Could my EDIS be bad or is there something I am still missing? Thanx for your help heribert, I was beginning to think no one was gonna respond.

Hi Mavrick!

This is what you wrote "pin 8 has a good ground, pins 7 and 9 have battery voltage,"
Hope this is a typo.

This is not what EDIS eats , and not what I wrote.

You must have : + 12 V feed on pin 8
You must have: a solid ground on pin 9
You must have : the VRshield wire connected to pin 7 and also the PIP/SAW shield wire connected to pin 7. Pin 7 is internally tied to pin 9. And to nothing else!

Please check it out.

Heribert

It was a typo, I was looking at your post, going back and forth between the car and the computer,and mistyped the info. By "battery voltage" I meant I put one lead from the DVOM on the positive terminal and the other lead I put to pin 7 and 9 of the EDIS. Pin 8 is the switched 12v, pin 9 is grounded to the chassis, and pin 7's wire is wrapped around the VR sensor wires and the pip/saw wires. sorry, I will pay more attention to what I am typing. Thanx again for helping.

This is what you need http://www.mcmaster.com/#71055k73/=1uuh4j Just $0.24/ft. Radio shack only carries 24 gauge twisted pair/shielded. Which I started out with but it was a pain to work with and I got a lot of noise with it. Switched to the 18 gauge from mcmaster and it's smooth as silk now.

So I replaced the EDIS with a new one from motorcraft and it does the same thing as the other one, it doesn't send a signal to the MS. I don't get it, it has a 12v switched power, ground, and is getting over a volt and a half from the vr sensor!!! Can anyone please shine some light on what I am missing PLEASE!

I used to get no rpm's some times when it would stall on intial cold start. I have to unplug the edis connector and plug it back in and it works fine...its like it has to reset?? I don't recall haveing this issue since I put the .5 farod audio cap in the middle of the generator, battery, and main fuse box. The only thing I can think of is that the edis module was getting some type of voltage spike that would lock it up.

I think you might be on to something. I wired that "audio cap" from the factory harness that was on the coil power in, but on the factory set up the coil was receiving power from the EDIS, I have the MSD suppling the coils with power, I will wire that on the switched 12v for the EDIS and see if that helps. Thanx alot!

So I had a chance to wire the "audio cap" to the 12v switched power for the EDIS............. no F****** change. Do you think the MSD could be causing the EDIS not to send a pip signal to the MS? I haven't tried it cuz I didn't think it would change anything.

Mavrick.
There is something that I do not understand. You run EDIS and MSD??
I know zilch about MSD, but think is is an ignitions system.

How is that all connected together? Could you please post a sketch or describe the
connections and give a link to th appropriate MSD info??

Heribert

I have pin 10,11, and 12 of the EDIS going to input 1,2, and 3 of the MSD, and then the MSD triggers the coil based on inputs received from the EDIS. here is a link to the unit I am using from MSD's website http://www.msdignition.com/product.aspx?id=5803

Hi again Mavrick.
This is probably quite tricky. Letting the EDIS coil driver outputs ( ie they sink the coil current, but I take the liberty of
calling them outputs anyway) trigger the MSD unit. Has this been done before ?
My guess is that the EDIS outputs are not compatible with the MSD inputs, unless some pretty radical EDIS std coil emulator is
put into the circuit. This seems to me quite a bit OT.

My advise would be to run a standard EDIS setup where the std EDIS 6 tower coil is driven straight from 10,11 and 12 from the
EDIS module.
This will work, absolutely.

Best regards

Heribet