MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

I have MS2 V3 and getting ready to run stand it on a 454 with dual tbi. I just started using tuner studio and took awhile to get the codes sync'd. I am using 2.890. I had to reload all my settings when updating code and I missed the injector current limit for 30% and left it at 75%. I got it so that the tps, iac and temps all were reading ok. The IAC were going in and out. I went to the screen for injector test and don't really know why I just didn't leave it for now but started the test having not read the full details. Anyhow the test started and as soon as the injectors started snapping I realized that probably wasn't a good idea. I had trouble getting it stopped and had way too many pulses. The MS stopped and no connection with tunerstudio. I then hooked up the stim and nothing except the power unit got hot quickly and the input voltage at the stim was 1.87 volts. It usually is 11.7 volts running and 12.2 volts static. I took the stim from the cpu and the voltage checked at 12.2. I pulled the daughter board and tried again and still 1.87 volts. I am guessing there is a dead short somewhere. I bought my MS assembled as my eyes and shakey hands aren't really up to the whole assembley. More than anything this post is more a rant about what and a** I was but if anyone has any simple checks I am listening. I have a digital volt/ohm meter. Expecting I will have to send it to be repaired.

Bob the a**

To check for a short in the Megasquirt PCB, power up the Megasquirt on a Stimulator or on the car and check the following points for voltage with a multimeter.

You should find the same voltage as the battery voltage on the following points: S12, S12C, the center legs of Q9 and Q12, the left (non-banded) end of D3, the left leg of U5, and the left (banded) end of D9.

You should have 5 volts at the following points: S5, the two +5V holes in the proto area, the right (non-banded) end of D9, the right leg of U5, the left (banded) end of D19, and pins 1, 20, and 31 of the CPU.

Let me know where you find the correct voltages, and where you find the wrong ones.

Thanks for you time Matt
Using a power unit that normally puts out 12 volts
S 12 1.26V
S 12C .26V rechecked twice
centre Q9 1.32V
centre Q12 1.33V
left D3 1.27V
left U5 .29V
left D9 .28V

All the requested tests for 5volts were .02V

I'll email you about this as I check my mailbox more often than the forum.

Board is up and running thanks to Matt. Even thought I had said I would just by a new board as shipping for repair would be troublesome. Matt walked me thru the test procedures and the fix and as a side bonus I am no longer afraid of soldering on the board. Thanks again Matt and DIY Auto.

Bob...no longer the a**