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HELP

Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 3:07 pm
by sr20miatact
So i built my MS2 the other night and tried to power it up today in the car and i got nothing but sizzle sizzle. I found R37 burned, D10 sizzling and Q12 every time i powered it on . I went and check all the wire and relays everything is normal. Now the one big problem i am also having is the little info on this so called needed condenser that Mega manual says is needed on the coil power wire. It calls for a 25 microfarad condenser but no info on voltage. =[

Does any one know why these 3 things start to burn???


I tried a 35v 47microfarade capacitor before it burned.

Also i grounded all the ground wires on the MS2 to the engine the and i use one ground wire to the ford EDIS. So can someone tell me if i did something wrong.

Re: HELP

Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 5:28 pm
by kjones6039
Also i grounded all the ground wires on the MS2 to the engine the and i use one ground wire to the ford EDIS.
Are you saying that the EDIS is grounded through the MS?

Ken

Re: HELP

Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 11:50 pm
by trakkies
Did it work normally on a stim? IMHO one is essential for a home built MS - you need to make sure it is working properly before going near the car.

The cap on the EDIS coil supply is just to remove any spikes getting back up that. Which may cause radio interference - or problems with other electronics. I dunno the actual rating, but if you can't get one as used by Ford etc I'd go for a non polarised 300 volt type. However, a genuine part is the way to go as it comes complete with bracket to fit one of the coil mounting bolts.

Re: HELP

Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 5:31 pm
by sr20miatact
I talked with the Matt over at DIY Auto Tune. we think the MS2 failed from the fact i had no other grounds hooked up and that i had the TPS and EDIS grounded to the MS. I ordered a new MS2 with out daughter board as i only had little burning on R37 and D10. I went over the wiring about 20x the other day and fixed all my grounds the rest of the wire was spot on and all relays working properly. The only thing i dont have is the STIM :( .

I have a 47 Microfarad cap tapped to the coil power wire and then going to the fire wall. I just noticed DIY also now sells CAS to make the stock CAS readable with the MS. Man i wish i had known before i went with the trigger wheel on my SR20DET. Im also going to try and use the SR20DET stock COPs. If they dont work i know a guy tested the EDIS for its dwell and found you could use the slim BMW COPs. Im trying to stay away from the ford coil but will run it if need be.

Re: HELP

Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 5:48 pm
by sr20miatact
Also one other question, anyone know how i would go about getting a tach signal to drive my stock 90 miata cluster tach with the ford EDIS4?

Re: HELP

Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 12:22 am
by trakkies
sr20miatact wrote:Also one other question, anyone know how i would go about getting a tach signal to drive my stock 90 miata cluster tach with the ford EDIS4?
If it is the sort of tach which just sniffs a single coil negative, you use diodes from the EDIS LT outputs to give the same signal - details in the MS manual under EDIS.

Pin 2 on the EDIS module also gives out a signal with the correct pulses - but these may be the wrong level for some tachs. A single transistor switching an inductor can change this into a suitable signal.

Re: HELP

Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 3:52 am
by kjones6039
Just a bit of info.......
Pin 2 on the EDIS module also gives out a signal with the correct pulses - but these may be the wrong level for some tachs. A single transistor switching an inductor can change this into a suitable signal.
The pin 2 scheme worked quite well for me when I was running EDIS on my Corvette. The stock tach was originally triggered from the HEI.

Ken