MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

Im having a problem with my rpm signal I found out that my hall sensor was burnt out but before I put a new one in i want to make sure that everything is alright with the board. I checked the voltage at the relay board and from s1 I have like 1.5 to 2v but on the tach sig port I have 5v which i should have i belive the vw has a hall sensor which is 60-2. But i still feel that I shouldnt have voltage at the s1 term.

Also I took apart my dizy and it looks to me that there are 4 shutters for the hall sensor im not actually sure why people say it is a 60-2 doesnt seem right to me either wouldnt I need to put into megatune 8 tooth with 4 missing that seems like it would be right idk anyone have any insight??

Unless I'm mistaken, the 60-2 is the CRANK sensor wheel, not the dizzy. If you have a 8-4 dizzy, IS there even a crank wheel?

Nismo Silvia wrote:Also I took apart my dizy and it looks to me that there are 4 shutters for the hall sensor im not actually sure why people say it is a 60-2 doesnt seem right to me either wouldnt I need to put into megatune 8 tooth with 4 missing that seems like it would be right idk anyone have any insight??

Eight teeth with four missing would be a very strange wheel - it would have four teeth spaced 45 degrees apart and a gap 180 degrees wide. To use four equally spaced teeth, turn wheel decoding off.

well everyone that has been talking about the vw dizy says it is 60-2 so idk i will have to make sure to see if there is a crank sensor too but the dizy is crank driven

Fixed the problem last night and got the car running another problem I have been having is that I was going to use the stock coolant and air intake temp sensor and just put in the specs from the resistance at temp but it doesn't seem to want to save the new values I really dont want to pull of the intake mani or water neck to get the gm sensors tapped in

Nismo Silvia wrote:Fixed the problem last night and got the car running another problem I have been having is that I was going to use the stock coolant and air intake temp sensor and just put in the specs from the resistance at temp but it doesn't seem to want to save the new values I really dont want to pull of the intake mani or water neck to get the gm sensors tapped in

The reason it doesn't seem to save the values is that sensor calibration data is not retrieved from the ECU like the other data - it's handled a bit differently. If you clicked "send" and didn't get an error message, it was sent. What MegaTune does is take the bias resistor value and the three sensor resistor values and generates a look-up table that it sends to the ECU. However, if it were to try and pull the table off the ECU, it would not be able to use the table to determine what values were originally entered.

It looks like my post was erassed and my question wasnt answered im seeing +5v out of my tack in on the relay board. I looked at one of my old posts and is there 5v on the tach in on the relay board and s1 supposed to be the ground how I have it set up right now the vr curcuit jumpers on the relay board +5v from the vref to the red wire on the sensor, tach to the center wire on the sensor, and ground to engine ground on the engine ground

The VR circuit does put out a bit of voltage, although usually it's around 2.something volts unless you add a pull up. (Did you?)