MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

Hey guys, just looking for some advice on this CAS, Originally its a part of a dizzy and it mounted on the camshaft. Has a optical sensor with 2 rings, the outer ring is all even spacing 360' the inner ring has 4 evenly spaced slots with 1 a larger size. Anyway a pics is worth a thousand...




So my first question is will this act as both a crank angle sensor (using the 360 ring) and a cam angle sensor (the 4 slots with the wider one as a home signal)

Question #2 is this all I need for 4 cylinder direct fire and 4 cylinder sequential injection (sensor wise anyway)

Question #3 is how do I test what the pin out is? there is 4 pins... im assuming 1 is 12V+ one is Ground and then 2 signal outputs (1 from each ring)


Is there a way I can test the pins with a multimeter to work out what is what? and its a optical sensor but do I just treat it exactly the same as a Hall effect sensor?

Thanks guys.

A fellow asked this question over on the MSExtra site a few months back; while neither B&G nor Extra code can handle the 360/4 pattern, it seems DIY has a replacement trigger wheel that pretty much drops right in. The 24-1-1 inner pattern at cam speed is treated as 12-1 at crank speed, with a single hole on the outer ring allows for full sequential injection (with Extra) and COP ignition.

Here's the thread on the Extra site, and here's the trigger wheel on DIY's site.

Thanks Don, That answers most of my questions, and now knowing its the same sensor as nissans ill most likely be able to find the pin-out information

My backup plan was just to use one of DIY's universal 36-1 trigger wheels, im unsure why the poster on msextra said its impossible to fit one to a 4ZE1? Wouldnt it just be a matter of mounting the trigger wheel onto the front of the crank pulley and making a bracket for the hall effect sensor to line up with the wheel?

Is this actually a better option then the DIY 24-1 (really 12-1) disc in the aforementioned CAS? as its directly mounted to the crank and has higher resolution?

Is the 36-1 trigger wheel all I need for full sequential fuel and spark or would I still also need a Cam sensor anyway? And could only run Semi-sequential and wasted spark...

Unless you're running a 2-stroke engine, you need something more than just the crank wheel for sequential operation, because the crank info is the same whether a particular cyl is coming to TDC on compression or exhaust.

I have absolutely no knowledge of these engines, so any comment I might offer as to why one fellow would say you can't mount one of DIY's trigger wheels would be nothing more than wild-behind guessing. Sorry ...

A crank wheel plus a single cam tooth is generally held to be more accurate that cam-only info; slop in the drive mechanism can cause inaccuracies in crank position info generated from the cam, while a wheel hard-bolted to the crank doesn't tend to drift all that much. That said, you currently have NO crank info, and the DIY dizzy wheel seems to be a fairly simple install. You'll have to investigate your options, inspect your engine, and figure out what works best for you.

Thanks heaps for the info Don, Im building a motor for a friend and I will indeed use the DIY wheel in his engine but for my own car Ive built a new serious motor which Id like to be spot on, the Head is off at the moment so I can accurately set the crank to TDC, I was actually hoping to get rid of the current dizzy/cas as it is in the way. (the motor is not in the original car its from)

Does the phasing of the wheel/hall sensor need to be set accordingly to TDC? And how do I set this to be exact?

Ie is the wheel supposed to have the missing tooth section crossing the sensor right as it reaches TDC? if thats the case can I read the output of the sensor with a multimeter etc and just rotate the wheel or the sensor itself until it outputs signal while the motor is at TDC?

The missing tooth area can be pretty much anywhere; you tell the ECU what the angle to TDC vs tooth #1 is when tooth #1 is at the sensor, and the MS takes it from there. Some bike engines (high compression, low mass) are fussy about where the open spot is, especially during cranking, so larger gaps (Honda likes 12-3 wheels) with the missing teeth carefully located help, but most car engines don't care.

Cheers Dom, not I just need to find a way to drive 4 low Z injectors with MS3X and im set

Oh, that's easy - jbperf's 4-channel Peak and Hold board.

Thanks again Don, haha I seem to be saying that alot lately, but I really do appreciate it... its forums like these that really help the DIY'er I noticed you also saw my thread on the other forum

Just order a JB Perf's board and MS3X