MSefi.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

Okay, disregard that last post. Turns out it doesn't matter what your cranking pulse widths are if you don't have any fuel in the tank!

Looks like I need to look into why my fuel gauge isn't reading correctly now...

Well, I did some more investigating today. Made a few changes to my tune and retried everything. Still no fire.

I got out of the car and turned the ignition key to the run position. You can hear the fuel pump activate and shut off after a few seconds like its supposed to. However my fuel pressure ...

so if you have a port setup, this isn't going to get you anywhere.


Hmmm...thanks. And yes I do have a port setup. I'm using the same intake manifold as I did when I had the carb running the engine. Fuel injectors are 42lb/hr.

Hopefully I can get some more seat time over the weekend and see if I ...

Okay, this is probably a really stupid question but is there anyway to correlate how many pumps of the throttle you need with a carb to give an engine enough fuel to start with how many miliseconds you need for your cranking pulse widths?

I'm still having starting issues with my 455 and I've been ...

I thought I read in the manual that there is a minimum voltage you need to fire the injectors but I can't seem to find it. Does anyone know what that is?

I tried starting my 455 the other day and couldn't get it going. I used the same tune I had back on 5-16-10 and it started pretty decent then ...

I'm starting to really get fed up with this. :( I don't know why it happened but I just hydrolocked my engine with fuel. The other night I had it up and running again and finally felt like I was moving forward with my tuning of the idle. Today I had some free time and decided to give it another go ...

I'm looking at upgrading my board to control my GM HEI distributor and was told I need to connect a wire from the JP1-Pin 5 to the #36 PIN on the DB37 connector at the board.

Wanted to know if there was a nice, simple plug to use on the JP1 Pin 5 terminal instead of soldering a wire directly to it ...

I tested my board with the stim last night and everything seemed to be working properly.

I decided to upgrade to the 2.891 code (didn't see where the 2.9 code was?) but after doing so, now my stim doesn't work any longer? When I plug the stim in, all three of the red LED's on the ECU flash real ...

Thanks. I ordered new plugs since I had already cleaned these once before.

Something that got me thinking last night was whether or not my injectors are too big? I know the manual says that if they are too big, you'll run into idle and cruise tuning problems due to the pulse widths being too short ...

I think part of my issue is that the engine is now flooded. I tried starting the engine today anyway I could and could only get it to try and fire once. Other than that it just cranks and cranks.
I tried doing a datalog but my datalog doesn't have the file in it for some reason.

What could be the ...

Thank you for the great step by step write up! That's what I've been looking for.

I'll look into upgrading the code. I know I tried to check the movement of my IAC valve like the megamanual said by removing it and watching its movement but no matter what value I typed into the computer and ...

To start off, I'm using an MS-II in a MS-1 version 2.2 board with 2.300 code.

I had the engine starting and running somewhat okay. At least to the point that I felt I was moving forward in my tuning.

I mentioned in another thread that my idle was changing by about 500rpm or so from cold to hot. I ...

I do have an IAC. Haven't got into figuring it out yet as I was concentrating on just getting the engine started.

My code version is B&G 2.300

Thanks,

Forgive me if this has been asked once before. I couldn't find it doing a search.

Now that I have my enigne starting more consistently I've noticed something with the idle. The rpm's seem to change between when the engine is cold and hot.

If I set my idle to 800rpm when the engine is cold, by the ...

Okay, finally had time to mess around with this today after letting the car sit for a week. I decided before I started messing with anything I would reload a tune into the ECU and just try starting the engine.
Didn't catch the first try but cranked it a few more times and finally got it to fire ...

Matt Cramer wrote:On the tach issue, are you able to get RPM on a Stimulator?

Matt, I'll check it with the stimulator as soon as possible. I just started a new job this past Tuesday and they have us working a lot of hours at the moment. Haven't even had a chance to get out to the barn to work on it.

For the pressure to hold after the pump stops relies on the pump, reg, injectors and pipework between all being good. If you have rubber hoses to pump and reg, you can check those by clamping the hose after each one in turn.

All my fuel lines are brand new EFI rated rubber at the tank to ...

Problem #1:

I'm having an issue with mine lately on the 455. Been trying to get it fired back up since I had it running last fall and its been pretty rough going.

I think one of my problems is fuel pressure. When I turn the key, I hear the fuel pump turn on and run for 2 seconds like its suppose ...

Thanks for the information guys. I guess thats what I'm trying to get straight in my head right now. The exact order of how I need to go about tuning everything. Its definitely a lot clearer now.

I'll give this all a try once I fix the intake leak and will post back with results.

Thanks again,

Andrew,

What code do you have?

I have the version 2.300 code.

If you have B&G code, numbers below 100 mean that the engine is leaner than while fully warmed up (100% is NO warm-up enrichment), and probably indicate that the VE table is too rich. See: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/tune.htm ...