newbie. 2.3 turbo Q
Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. Many users will not reply if the answer is already available in the manual.
If your question is about troubleshooting, configuration, or tuning, you MUST include your processor type (MS-I or MS-II) and code version in your post. If your question is about PCB assembly or modifications, you must also include the main board version number (1.01, 2.2 or 3.0).
If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra code configuration or tuning, please post them at www.msextra.com Such questions posted here will be moved to: a temporary MSextra sub-forum, where they will be removed after 7 days
The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
newbie. 2.3 turbo Q
im new to the idea of megasquirt. so far it sounds awesome!!! i need to know everything i need to put a megasquirt set up on my car. i figure ill buy a cheap laptop to keep in the car. i would like to keep the ford sensors also. help is greatly appreciated
thanks
jeff
BTW the engine is from an 86 mekur xr4ti with 35LB injectors, small VAM
manual trans. and it is bone stock except for exhaust and air cleaner
EFI 2.3 turbo from a merkur xr4ti
i am currently painting it
1994.5 f-250 4x4 powerstroke
-
MegaScott
I don't know which way you are going, but if you have a 79 mustang you would do good by either using the Relay board and cable, or adding fuses and relays to a homebuilt harness. The hardest part though is the fuel system, but you can get most everything off an 86 or newer EFI fox bodied Ford product.
jeff
EFI 2.3 turbo from a merkur xr4ti
i am currently painting it
1994.5 f-250 4x4 powerstroke
-
MegaScott
Dude, a little reading of the MegaManual is in order!7t9cobra wrote:i already have the swap done. i have the stock merkur harness, relays, and fuses. i have a walbro 255 LPh pump. im looking to do a megasquirt. the bias resistor talk is jibberish to me lol. im VERY NEW to this. what is a bias resistor? i basically need to know a list of things i need, and need to do to run it. i hate to sound retarded but i have no experience with MS at all. thanks!
jeff
You need -Megasquirt MS2 with MSV30 board.
Wiring harness.
PWM Fidle transistor mod. (TIP120)
Unless you have aspirations to use a stock computer using my adaptor board, just lop off the big 60 pin connector and start splicing in the Ford harness to the MS harness. I can give you wire numbers/colors from the 60 pin to Megasquirt if you want, it should only be a few minutes to gather up for a Merkur.
thanks again
jeff
EFI 2.3 turbo from a merkur xr4ti
i am currently painting it
1994.5 f-250 4x4 powerstroke
-
MegaScott
Read the manual on this page - http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/IAC.htm7t9cobra wrote:wow. the first half of reading that i felt really dumb lol i understand it better now....much better. i could not find very much information on the FIDLE mod though. so i figure (not adding the FIDLE mod yet) it should be less than $300 to do this correct? then of course the cost of a cheap laptop. i really appreciate the help. im falling in love with the idea of doing the MS. we'll see how much i love it when i go to run it i guess LOL if anyone has any more info, tips, or anything, please share!
thanks again
jeff
Scroll down about half way down the page to the "Fast Idle Valve" section.
You can buy all the stuff needed as listed below from DIYAutoTune.com
MS1 unassembled kit - $187.00
MS2 unassembled kit - $253.00
Assembled Megasquirt 1 with V3.0 - $330.00
Assembled MS2 with V3.0 - $410.00
Assembled MS1 with 3.57SMD - $356.00
Assembled MS2 with 3.57SMD - $430.00
Ford bias resistor kit - $1.60
Fidle mod kit - $7.00
18" Megasquirt pigtail harness - $48.00
You can see that the cost is directly related to how much work you need to do. The latest MS board is the SMD 3.57 which only comes fully assembled. Also, Any Megasquirt with the MS1 processor can be upgraded to MS2 anytime for $90.
If you are assembling your own kit it would be wise to buy a stimulator, of course the stim is a good investment even if you buy one fully assembled. $65.
Since you have a turbo, you may want to buy a WBEGO system, The WB sensor cost's from $45 and you can buy a JAW controller for $45, an Innovate LC-1 controller without sensor cost's $145.
-
MegaScott
One thing....the stock EEC measures IAT at the VAM which is incorrect for optimal operation, you need to screw in a IAT sensor into the upper intake after the Throttle body for better operation. The New IAT can be a Ford or GM sensor which will wire up to the old VAM connector.
thanks
jeff
EFI 2.3 turbo from a merkur xr4ti
i am currently painting it
1994.5 f-250 4x4 powerstroke
-
MegaScott
-
MegaScott
The Megasquirt pin numbers are in the middle, the EEC functions and wire colors are on the right. Just splice those connections together. Any wires not used can just be stowed.7t9cobra wrote:so thats the MS wiring harness right?? then i would splice my wires into that harness by using a wiring diagram for my motor correct?
BTW the grounds on the EEC have to be connected to the MegaSquirt Grounds, I listed all the Megasquirt grounds which there are around 15 grounds in the connector you probably only have 5 ground connections in the cable, you can just split them up between the EEC grounds.
Also there are two power wires on the EEC, just splice those, 37 and 57 to the single 12V power of the Megasquirt.
Since you have a turbo, you may want to buy a WBEGO system, The WB sensor cost's from $45 and you can buy a JAW controller for $45, an Innovate LC-1 controller without sensor cost's $145.
so what is that, and what does it do?
EFI 2.3 turbo from a merkur xr4ti
i am currently painting it
1994.5 f-250 4x4 powerstroke
-
MegaScott
The Stock Ford turbo uses a Narrowband Oxygen sensor which interfaces directly to the ECU or Megasquirt. Narrow band sensors oly tell the ecu if you are at 14.7-1 afr. and no usable information when boost comes on, the stock Ford computer goes into open loop under boost.7t9cobra wrote:Since you have a turbo, you may want to buy a WBEGO system, The WB sensor cost's from $45 and you can buy a JAW controller for $45, an Innovate LC-1 controller without sensor cost's $145.
so what is that, and what does it do?
Megasquirt can use a Wideband Oxygen sensor which will tell you what your AFR is under all conditions, much better for turbo use because you need to know what the AFR is during boost, something impossible to do with the stock Narrowband sensor.
Wideband sensors require a seperate controller, such as the JAW or the Innovate LC-1.
-
MegaScott
The JAW is more DIY and less refined but cheaper.7t9cobra wrote:ok that makes sense. what does the controller do? and what is the difference between the 2?
The Innovate LC-1 is a proven unit with less guess work.
Both Wideband controllers work good, they both have some faults, the early LC-1's had problems with the output driver going out, the probs have been fixed in the newer units.
The Jaw doesn't come with a Case and is not really even designed for one, though you can put it in a small case it doesn't have mounting provisions as-is.
EFI 2.3 turbo from a merkur xr4ti
i am currently painting it
1994.5 f-250 4x4 powerstroke