The MegaSquirt Project has experienced explosive growth other the years, with hundreds of new MS installations occurring every week - a phenomenal success! MegaSquirt has been successfully used in all aspects of Internal Combustion engine applications including R&D, Industry, Race, and Research. The MS project has transformed itself from a simple R&D project into a full-featured mature engine control system. To reflect this the support structure has also changed to meet the needs of MegaSquirt Users.
Moving forward, the R&D forums for MegaSquirt project are in a read-only mode - no new forum posts are accepted.
However the forums will remain available for view, they still contain a wealth of information on how MegaSquirt works, how it is installed and used. Feel free to search the forums for information, facts, and overview.While the R&D forum traffic has slowed in recent years, this is not at all a reflection of Megasquirt users, which continue to grow year after year. What has changed is that the method of MegaSquirt support today has rapidly moved to Facebook, this is where the vast majority of interaction is happening now. For those not on Facebook the msextra forums is another place for product support. Finally, for product selection assistance, all of the MegaSquirt vendors are there to help you select a system, along with all of the required pieces to make it complete.
For discussing how to choose sensors and create a wiring harness for all Bowling and Grippo versions of the MegaSquirt® EFI controller.
Forum rules Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. Many users will not reply if the answer is already available in the manual.
If your question is about troubleshooting, configuration, or tuning, you MUST include your processor type (MS-I or MS-II) and code version in your post. If your question is about PCB assembly or modifications, you must also include the main board version number (1.01, 2.2 or 3.0).
one end is for inserting one for removal -- IIRC (Its been over 15yrs since I had to use one) ... the insertion end looks like a "C" when viewed from the end, the removal looks like an "O" with a slit in it.
Take the removal tool, and fit it over the wire you wish to remove (obviously this is on the "back" side of the connector) with the plastic end away from the connector. The tool should go completely around the wire. slide the tool into the connector, when it meets resistance carfully push ~ 1/8" more, now pull the wire out, or push the pin out with needle nose. If it doesn't come easy it is still locked and you need to insert the removal tool deeper. -- you may have to wiggle things around a bit.
I can't tell you how many of those things I've broken, but more than I have fingers.......
It's kind of wierd to use.
You have to work the wire into the closed end from the opening that is towards the plastic and then pull the tool up the wire until the wire is worked into the tube.
Then you can slide the tube back down the wire into the shell until you release the tabs. You should be able to pull on the wire and both should come out if the tabs are released.
