assembly...

[bentvalve]

ok, i have been doing alot of reading..just kinda confused on a few subjects.

1.some say to use lead solder,i thought i seen something that said to use 60/40 rosin core?

2.i am very concerned about the static potential. do i need to get a bigger anti-static bag? (i know it says to not handle some componets alot.) is the board really sensative?

3.when soldering the "pad" is the actual piece on the board right?

4.i have seen different theory's on soldering.

so, 1 of them shows putting the iron and solder on same side(i could be seeing this wrong but....)so like iron,solder,component.
what i see here is iron one side solder on the other side of component..
which is the correct way?

5. flux paste,it says not to use in some places, the when reading some post people say to use it in small places to avoid running the joint together.. so please clear that up for me..

so i know this is all very basic stuff but, i want to be clear on this before i get into trouble.(i have a history of if things can happen..i do it and destroy stuff)

this will be my 4th project. i did 3 radio shack kits. progressively got better with each one. i did complete my relay board.

thanks for any direction...don

[kjones6039]

ok, i have been doing alot of reading..just kinda confused on a few subjects.

1.some say to use lead solder,i thought i seen something that said to use 60/40 rosin core?

2.i am very concerned about the static potential. do i need to get a bigger anti-static bag? (i know it says to not handle some componets alot.) is the board really sensative?

3.when soldering the "pad" is the actual piece on the board right?

4.i have seen different theory's on soldering.

so, 1 of them shows putting the iron and solder on same side(i could be seeing this wrong but....)so like iron,solder,component.
what i see here is iron one side solder on the other side of component..
which is the correct way?

5. flux paste,it says not to use in some places, the when reading some post people say to use it in small places to avoid running the joint together.. so please clear that up for me..

so i know this is all very basic stuff but, i want to be clear on this before i get into trouble.(i have a history of if things can happen..i do it and destroy stuff)

this will be my 4th project. i did 3 radio shack kits. progressively got better with each one. i did complete my relay board.

thanks for any direction...don

1. 60/40 is 60% lead and 40% tin. It is what I, and many others use.

2. IMHO the board is very robust and not particularly prone to damage from static but to be as safe as possible use an anti static wrist strap. (quite cheap at RS)

3. The 'pad' refers to the copper pad that has been etched on the pcb. Generally the components leads are inserted through the holes drilled in those pads.

4. There are several 'preferred techniques' here. I have been soldering electronics for almost 60 years and still don't consider myself an expert but here goes.......

My preference is to apply heat to the pad and lead at the same time before I attempt to apply the solder. I then continue application of the heat until has flowed smoothly in order to avoid 'cold solder' joints. Since you have practiced on the RS kits and relay board you probably have already attained a good feel for the basics of soldering.

5. I personally do not use paste flux. My preference is to use 60/40 rosin core solder. I would suggest that you use rather fine gauge solder also as it certainly reduces the chance of solder bridges and produces less flux mess to clean up.

IMHO there is nothing mysterious about soldering. Like lots of other things, it just takes a bit of practice!

This is just the way one old guy does things of course. I am sure you will receive several other opinions also.

Good luck,

Ken

[trakkies]

Just a couple of additions to Ken's excellent advice.

The most common 60/40 solder size you'll find is 1.2mm diameter. 0.6 is far more suitable for the small pads found on MS and is much easier to use. Digikey etc sell it. It also seems to have more flux as a proportion - so I've never found the need for extra. A soldering iron bit with a tip about the same size makes things easier too.
Clean the tip each time you take the iron from the stand. A damp sponge is fine. A hot iron is good too - it will make the joint quicker than a cooler one. I use 450C.

The MS is a layered board, so the joint must be good on both sides but made from just the one side. If it looks good on both sides it will be fine in the middle. I solder everything from the non component side of the PCB. I apply the solder to the joint, then the iron, and feed in enough solder so you get a nice fillet on both sides. A little practice tells you how much length is needed. It's around 3" with 0.6". The PCB should be on something solid and decent pressure used with the iron. I made up a wood spacer frame that the MS PCB sits on which supports it nicely but gives clearance off the bench for the components. An adjustable base vice can be useful too.

As regards static, do you get static shocks in your workshop? It only occurs where there are man made materials like nylon, or natural materials where that is added. The main cause is wearing such clothes and a man made carpet. Stick to pure cotton and leather shoes. Perhaps I'm just lucky, but I don't take any precautions other than that and have never had a component die through static.

A good magnifier is essential for checking some of the joints after making them - notably some of the small transistors where the pads are very close. I had a cheapish headset which has a variety of clip in lenses. And an anglepoise light with a 150 watt halogen lamp. But then my eyes are quite old.

[bentvalve]

wow, thanks!!! don