Hello
I am looking for a connector to wire my MS, between the megasquirt case in the car and the relay board which will be in the engine bay.
I don't like the idea of just drilling a hole and letting the cable pass though, I would prefer to find a clean solution with a connector.
Would this type of connectors be OK:
link
here the doc: pdf
It is made of strong plastic: PA 6-6.
What is the maximal intensity I should look for? (I don't think a lot)
Do some of you use this kind of connectors?
Do you have other types the you could suggest, from Digikey, or available in Europe (preferably France or Germany) ?
Thanks for your help
firewall connector
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Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. Many users will not reply if the answer is already available in the manual.
If your question is about troubleshooting, configuration, or tuning, you MUST include your processor type (MS-I or MS-II) and code version in your post. If your question is about PCB assembly or modifications, you must also include the main board version number (1.01, 2.2 or 3.0).
If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra code configuration or tuning, please post them at www.msextra.com Such questions posted here will be moved to: a temporary MSextra sub-forum, where they will be removed after 7 days
The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
-
oughtsix
- MegaSquirt Newbie
- Posts: 25
- Joined: Tue Feb 28, 2006 6:44 pm
- Location: Redmond, Oregon
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Re: firewall connector
I started with an intermediate connector. What I found is I tripled the number of possibilities of having a wiring problem. I am not talking about running the wrong wire to the wrong place... I am talking about having a loose connection in a connector and having to trace down where the problem is. From my experience a straight run with no intermediate connector is a MUCH more rugged install.
1980 450slc converted to MegaSquirt electronic fuel injection and couldn't be happier! Using the stock dizzy and a MSD 6AL ignition along with the stock Bosch ignition box. Home built fuel rails out of aluminum fuel rail stock. Using 19lb mustang injectors I purchased off of ebay.
--Mike.
--Mike.
Re: firewall connector
DIY Auto tune offers this 22 pin Weather pack Connector
http://www.DIYAutoTune.com/catalog/weat ... p-364.html
http://www.DIYAutoTune.com/catalog/weat ... p-364.html
Re: firewall connector
If you're not doing a frequent remove/replace, just run through the firewall. You have terminals at either end of the ECU cable for test-light diagnosing when required.
I've used these before for other stuff. Requires a 1 1/8" hole, IIRC. A short piece of heater hose can be cut to make whatever grommet size you need. Requires a nut for locking it in place. Other truck lighting companies carry these, sometimes in black color, too.
http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/st ... &langId=-1
I've used these before for other stuff. Requires a 1 1/8" hole, IIRC. A short piece of heater hose can be cut to make whatever grommet size you need. Requires a nut for locking it in place. Other truck lighting companies carry these, sometimes in black color, too.
http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/st ... &langId=-1
Needs to get the toes out of the water and just jump off the diving board!!!
current EFI project:
65 Chrysler 300L, 413, working on inline dual GM TBI units, will run with MS2. Hoping to have factory-style appearance.
current EFI project:
65 Chrysler 300L, 413, working on inline dual GM TBI units, will run with MS2. Hoping to have factory-style appearance.
Re: firewall connector
Ok, thank you
as you say, it is certainly easier to go just through with a cable gland, there will be less risk of errors or bad contact.
as you say, it is certainly easier to go just through with a cable gland, there will be less risk of errors or bad contact.