however, ive recently run into a baffling issue that i can't seem to figure out and as the car is my DD it has caused me to be unable to go to work today.
the initial issue started over the weekend where for some reason the car would run really rich and the only way i could keep it running was to either keep the throttle cracked or pop a vacuum line off and even then, instead of idling high at near 2000 like it should with the vacuum line off, it barely idled at 1000. it did this for a while and then stopped and ran fine. it did that twice over the weekend (900+ mile round trip) and yesterday did it again and hasn't "fixed" itself. What i did notice is that i believe it is tied to a voltage drop. Megatune was only seeing 10-11ish volts when the car was running (batt was at 14.xx volts measured at the terminals) also, i parked the car at the store for a minute and when i came out, the car started then died, the reason was that the relays were not tripping to provide power to the MS, fuel pump etc. I was able to get home buy hot-wiring the MS, FP and injectors and she ran like before, with the low voltage rich condition.i haven't been able to figure out the issue, i tried to eliminate the relay board from the equation but the voltage drop is still there even though my source 12v wire i used to hotwire the car reads 12v, MT still only sees 11v at most. for wiring, i had the relay board on the inside passenger fender and the batt is on the drivers side. i had run switched 12 and constant 12v across the engine bay to the relay board with the occasional butt splice and some crimp wire taps for other 12v needs and the ground is only a short run to the aluminium motor mount (which is bolted to the iron block) and the batt ground to the motor connects to one of the aluminium heads.
im totally lost on this one and could really use some help. anyone have any ideas or advice? my plan at the moment is to re-wire the 12v, switched 12v and run teh ground to the same ground point as the battery to see if that helps.
